2013-03-24
17186
131
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作者：BriaIF
1楼：旅行季节、购物、美食、证件
2楼：机票、进出交通
7楼：路上的住宿
14楼：Juley-拉达克的namaste或salaam :)
16楼-17楼：Zanskar的Phugtal Gompa
21楼：Manali一日流水账
22楼：Manali-Leh一路的三种交通方式
24楼：Uttanchal的Nanda Devi National Park
30楼：绿意盎然的Srinagar与Kerala的航拍对比
34楼：Manali-Leh公车、海拔问题
三月尾声，恒河平原即将热火蒸腾，印度河的山地却在慢慢苏醒……
知道拉达克，是因为至今最喜爱的两部印度电影之一（另一部是Barfi——会让你爱上大吉岭）《三傻》的最后，米叔隐居至此办了一所小学，整天与小孩子一起搞各种科学发明，与世无争、悠然自得。很可惜，作为邻国居民，很多地方都进不去（比如米叔的那所学校在潘公厝——准确说法是要permission，但问过的所有agent多说连港澳台的护照都一律被枪毙！）；即使如此，有限的所见所闻仍让我对电影中米叔的选择感同身受。
在印度呆久了，偶有hold不住那火树银花、波涛翻滚的diversity的时候，拉达克（以及克什米尔、喜马偕尔等的整个山区）便是一个绝佳的retreat。把namaste换成juley，明亮色系的印度饰品换成华贵幽深的藏饰、突突车的轰鸣换成双脚有力的节奏或者荒山大漠里的吉普……拉达克，可以一个个藏庙地逛过来，也可以一座座山脊走过，更可在一间间露天咖啡馆中浸泡一个整天。反正，有的是蓝天、白云、冰凉的山风、热烈的阳光、金色的日落和闪烁的繁星。
Ladakh. Land of High Passes.
正因鲜有打扰，所以值得驻留。
但回过神来，重新发现这又确实是印度，便又多了一份理由，爱上她的diversity and spirituality。
————————————————我是拉达克的分割线————————————————
照片正在慢慢整理中（我很拖拉orz...），相册在此；
以下是从博客中摘录的购物吃饭等的推荐：
Q1【旅行时节】: Is August/ September a good time to visit Ladakh?
BA: I was in Leh from 2012-8-27 to 2012-9-2 and went trekking between at the end of August. In sharp contrast to our stay in Dharamsala where we did not see one beam of sunlight for the entire three days, the sun in Ladakh is so generous that you have to gear yourself up with lip balms, hand creams and sun creams to avoid the “care” that is “over-granted” by the sun. The beginning of September also sees the annual Ladakh Festival run by the tourism department, where one can enjoy parade, traditional dance, polo match, cultural and photography exhibitions and even a marathon!
（护手霜防晒霜润唇膏统统上阵有木有！！）
Q2【购物-克什米尔围巾】: Where can I buy good Pashmina shawls in Leh?
BA: There are a lot of good handicraft shops in Leh everywhere, from Fort Road to Main Bazar. But never forget to bargain if you want a fair price. For us, we bargained with “The Gift” in Lal Chowk of Main Bazar near Jama Masjid (alibaba1112@rediffmail.com) and got rewarding results because they are said to have got the shawl directly from their countryside factory.
Another equally important tip: although you can always bargain and reach an agreeable deal, the initial price that you would hear in Leh is always much higher, usually twice the price compared with that in Dharamsala or Manali. Since a lot of foreigners (especially those who have not been to above two places yet) tend to accept the price indiscriminately, not every shop dealer has the patience to run into a marathon bargain with you. (Exceptions can be found in Tibetan handicraft markets where you will manage to get “the Dharamsala price” for bracelets, necklaces, Buddha statues as well as other arts and crafts.) In that case, better equip yourself in advance in Dharamsala and Manali (if possible) before you are shocked by the expensive Leh.
（这是Jama Masjid旁Leh老城小路上的一件饰品小店。这位穆斯林老爷爷不仅卖这个，还会自己串珠子打磨玉石之类的。卖的都是他自己的手工制作，而且因为有些搭扣珠线之类不齐全，全是打折卖的！我买到一串很漂亮的小蓝水晶手链才50卢比！不知道有没有看Amazing Race的同学。我看到这位老爷爷第一反应就是，以后我要是到列城来搞节目一定请他发放clue信封！）
Q3【美食】: What are the recommended dishes/ restaurants in Leh?
BA: Our limited time of stay enabled us to shortlist the extensive collections listed by the Lonely Planet (but not that even that list is not exhaustive!) For dinner definitely try the mutton chili (don’t be fooled by the name. It’s not that spicy as suggested by the name, and you can always ask them to make it less spicy.) and mutton momo (severed within the soup) in the Tibetan Kitchen. Chopsticks’ chicken veg mixed rice offers the best alternative. As for the options on Changspa Road, Bon Appetit combines good food with amazing views (full moon and thousand stars- does that remind you of Van Gogh’s masterpiece?) Mini Khao Suey (Burmese noodle broth with assorted condiments) is something that resembles the classical Yunnan dish of Cross Bridge Rice Noodle: Seven small plates host condiments such as eggs, lemon, peanuts, sesame etc. that you put into the rice noodle soup according to your own preference (right, you are the chef ^,^). Non-veg mixture of rice is flavored with the delicious (and innovative) lemon ginger chicken. The pasta and pizza might not be a satisfying option, though.
（求中文……这明明是云南米线的吃法！但尝着又像粉，不是米线。而且为嘛英文听着是“炒穗”lol）
【补充】由于拉达克的文化和宗教都是收到藏传佛教熏陶，在饮食上也与其接近。许多食物于是看上去便会让人倍感亲切，以下是一些基本食物的当地叫法：
饺子-momo：但是和中国（至少是我家）吃法不一样的地方在于，大多地方都是干的饺子上来，木有汤（少数除外，比如上面提到的Tibetan Kitchen）；而且馅料上，孟买等印度教徒居多的大城市里，以全素为主，Ladakh和Dharamsala则以羊肉馅出名。牛肉馅也有些；但猪肉的很少。
水煮面条-thupa
煎饺-samosa：这个倒不是拉达克特产，全印度都有。但个头上来说要比国内的煎饺大很多哦！而且经常是全素的T.T（姐是肉食动物！！！！）
Booklover’s retreat (Café Jeevan), owned by a Jammu-based Punjabi man, offered another amazing experience, mainly by its veg cheese sizzler with rice and noodle. Sizzling noise and vegetable aroma of the dish already augmented the appetite, not to mention the fresh taste of rice and noodles mingled with the cauliflowers, carrots and cabbages. The second-hand bookshop also creates a nice ambiance, although you need to search hard to make the 250 Rupees’ deal worthwhile. But once you plan to sell your own book to them, you will find their policy quite ridiculous: you give them your book in exchange of one of their collections, and you still have to pay them 125 Rupees (half of the original price)!
Last but not least, Open Hand Café is the perfect place for espresso if you are very particular about coffee.
Q4【证件申请/restricted area/inner line permission】: I am a border citizen (to India). Can I get the inner line permit to visit restricted areas in Ladakh from Leh?
BA: In theory, you should always find authoritative answers from government agencies like Foreigners’ Regional Registration Office (FRRO). However, save the rare chance of success and a lot of efforts in vain, my observation is that it is virtually impossible for border citizens to get the permit directly from Leh. I was also informed that the difficulty is not imposed to mainland citizens alone, but also those with Hong Kong SAR passport (I guess it is the same for Macau) or those from Taiwan but with a residence permit of mainland on their passports.
Instead, to get such permits, border citizens have to apply in Delhi, travelling from one government agency to another at the mercy of cold faces of suspicions thrown by those functionaries. (Chinese readers can refer to my attempt of getting permit to Sikkim here.) Throw a coin to see if you can get it or not. If you can even get it done fast (say, within one week), buy yourself a lottery and you deserve it!
Pessimistic as it sounds, it is by far the only official way that you can explore the stunning beauty and profound tranquility of Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Rupsu Valley. In practice, if your risk premium is high enough, you can always speculate if the pass check is strictly followed as to counter the intuitive perception of Indian slack. Otherwise, you don’t have to be sad either, because you can still make the most of what you are allowed to see and do.
（看不到潘公厝，就看这个补偿一下吧>_
