2016-03-23
2526
4
12
作者：MMSZM
当得知春假有一周时间时候，我就默默想着远游的机会来了，正好黄哥(朋友)问我要不要一起去阿拉斯加，我欣喜同意并开始着手准备。一行8人，3/12/16 – 3/18/16 在阿拉斯加，主要是看极光。听说是极光爆发最后一年，但5天在Fairbanks (最好的极光观赏地)，外加人品还可以，感觉几率较大。就这样，一段奇幻的旅途开始了。行程第一天：我和黄哥两个人先飞到Anchorage, 然后开车2.5hr到Seward，然后从Seward原路回到Anchorage再到Fairbanks。第二天至第五天：和黄哥的朋友一行8人在Fairbanks追极光。Seward 和 Anchorage之间的高速是最美的一段，海，河，冰，山尽有。 路上没什么冰，但有些路段雾气较重，还是注意点开加个滤镜Anchorage到Fairbanks这条路上，最美的路段是在距Fairbanks 200miles左右的时候就几个城市和几条高速，如果时间充裕，可以选择其他路线：1. 南边：Anchorage – Homer – Seward – Anchorage2. 北边：Fairbanks – Anchorage – Tok – Fairbanks (三角)3. Fairbanks – coldfoot: 听说开车比较危险，因为没有加油站和wifi，而且必须租专门的车和无线电，还得申请license。去coldfoot最好是直接飞，为了寄一个明信片要飞几个小时个人觉得不太值得。P.S. 最北端能寄明信片的地方是Deadhorse，想去就去吧，不拦着衣服/装备我们是3月中的行程，还算是冬天，但已经不冷了(零下十几度而已)。当然，冷这件事毕竟是主观的，所以衣服还是多穿一些。在Fairbanks这几天阳光算充足，3-4天都是晴天，下雪的时候能见度也很高，没有什么风，牛仔裤+棉裤就行了。男生一双厚袜子足够，女生脚容易冷。暖宝宝和暖水壶没有必要，占地方而且屋子里和车里都很暖和。T-shirt可以2天一换，保暖内衣/长袖可以3-4天一换 (毕竟想出汗还是较难的)。必要装备: 羽绒服，毛衣，保暖内衣，厚袜子，手套，围巾，帽子，防雪裤，防水厚靴/登山靴；太阳镜奢侈品：暖宝宝，暖水壶，为了照相的衣服etc建议多带1-2件羽绒服，帽子+围巾+太阳镜也可以多带一个风格的，要不然照片会像我一样千篇一律的朴素。衣服上有任何的需要，当地的超市+户外装备店都能买到(包括暖宝宝)。 食阿拉斯加特产是salmon(三文鱼)，Halibut鱼，king crab (帝王蟹)，但只有几家餐厅做king crab，做得也一般，当地人都不怎么吃。旅行之前看了很多其他人游记，感觉阿拉斯加物资短缺，所以带了一整背包的零食以便充饥。之后发现，当地一切的物品都可以买到，而且价格就是美国普通城市的价格，结果又把半个背包的零食原封不动的背回去了。其实超市的东西很全，有条件完全可以自己在厨房做 (king crab可以在Fred Mayer买到)。路上超市里，随便买了点吃的继续赶路A dozen doughnut，chowder，corndog，breakfast sandwich，coffee. Healthy much?在Fairbanks呆了5天，市里好一点的餐厅基本都吃了，食材都算新鲜，但地道的不多。日料，越餐，韩餐，和海鲜餐厅都小贵。快餐的话基本都有，McD, KFC, Pizza Hut, Taco Bell etc. 因为气温低，所以需要高热量食物，导致所有餐厅都偏咸，西餐奶油较多，在餐厅吃一定要说少盐。以下是Fairbanks餐厅，顺序是按好吃到一般排序的：1. Pho House：越饭+粉，Fairbanks最地道的餐厅了，很便宜。去了2次，冷天喝点热汤十分舒服 2. Seoul Gate Restaurant：韩餐，不错。推荐拌饭和烤肉饭。3. Jung Korean Restaurant: 韩餐，小贵，但是挺地道的4. Turtle Club：海鲜+西餐，我们找到的唯一吃king crab的地方，较贵，上菜慢。一个combo meal (crab + steak)够2人吃，Salad bar自取。5. The Crepery：普通crepe法式薄饼，上餐很慢。不过咖啡做得不错，推荐Mochaccino6. Thai House Restaurant：泰餐，偏咸，分量ok。7. Fushimi：日料，菜很一般，小贵。不推荐。一个面咸的被我退掉了。Anchorage和Seward的餐厅是我之前查的，没来得及吃，不作评论。Anchorage：Acai Alaska (juice bar); bar food: Glacier BrewHouse, Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse, F Street Station; Crazy Cow Caribbean Grill; Yakitori Sushi House; Snow City Cafe; Moose’s Tooth (pizza)Seward：chinooks (海鲜), Le Barn Appetit Creperie & Inn 喝：当地有些brewery酿酒厂(Hoodoo，Alaskan)，可以去厂子或超市买点酒晚上喝。女生可以尝点cider暖身子买：可以在Interior Alaska Fish Processors买熏三文鱼，鱼子酱，可以带回家或者直接晚上小酌时当配菜。里面是冷藏室，老伯和伙计会热情的招呼你。推荐原味三文鱼，当然也有其他口味(teriyaki，lemon etc.)，但是偏咸。纪念品有礼品店或者博物馆。当地的皮毛和木制品不嫌贵可以买。住阿拉斯加任何住宿最好提前预订，酒店基本被国内游客和spring break的中国学生订完。http://www.explorefairbanks.com/where-to-stay，bookings.com，Airbnb或者任何网站都行。我们一行8人，其中6个因为临时改酒店，差点没有地方住。当然，有客观因素包括国内游客暴增，spring break学生，Fairbanks开会高峰 (没开玩笑，好像是极地会议什么的)。人多的话建议找Airbnb然后直接租一个够大的house，得有人睡沙发不过平摊下来和青旅一样便宜。我和黄哥住在了billie's backpackers hostel青旅，一张床每晚$33，男女混住，公共卫浴，有几个房间，很干净，店主奶奶很好。一行人也可以包一个房间大家住一起(我们没订上)，最大的一个房间是3个上下铺和1个双人床。这个青旅最大特色是它的氛围，是我住过的Airbnb或者青旅中最有氛围的。感受一下雪地魔法小屋的温馨。可不要忘了主人是这个可爱的Bulldog – Franky公共厨房随意使用，冰箱里可以放自己的食品。老奶奶还会不定时做早餐让大家吃。三个笔记本，满满的都是各国游客的感言，插画，图片。最早可以追溯到1998年。P.S. 照相请征得老奶奶同意。如果这里侵犯了任何人的隐私，请及时告知，先表示歉意，但这些留言实在是太有爱了。行Fairbanks很小，穿越整个市大概只需要20mins，所以一辆车足以。半箱油的时候建议就加满，因为不知道会开到哪儿去，暖气也耗油。我们差点倒在半路。其实路上冰不多，2WD (2轮驱动) 的普通轿车就能开，4WD的SUV完全不怕。但是如果雪有半个车轮的高度，普通轿车还是容易陷进去的打滑出不来的。五天下来租车费，普通轿车大概$450，SUV (普通小吉普) $850，8个人每车4人，平均每人才$160左右，很便宜。飞机：我们是美国国内飞，所以行李一共只能有两件，带点基本是衣服。国际航班会好一些。火车：本来打算坐火车从Seward到Fairbanks的，但是开车好像更好，能随时停车拍照。打算坐火车的话需要1天，有从南到北和从北到南各个城市的票，必须提前1-2个月订。https://alaskatrain.com/book/玩1. 极光 Northern lights/Aurora/Polar lights：去阿拉斯加最主要的项目之一就是看极光。幸好队里有专业的 – 端木，学生亦是签约摄影师(@sky Duan Mu – Getty Image)。去之前以为肉眼能看到的极光就是网上照片中的那样，但是实际上能看到的只是半空中的明亮波浪。只能用相机曝光+后期处理，才能看出明显极光。我们就在一条Fairbanks向北的公路上开了40miles 左右等极光。按照我们自己的稀有级分类，最low的是静止的单一条形绿色极光，往上依次是静止的多个条形绿色极光，静止的大片绿色极光，波动的条形绿色极光，波动的条形杂色极光，波动的大片极光 (说的都晕了，不服来辩吧)。P.S. 我们有幸看到了绿色夹杂紫红色的波浪，但是只持续了十几秒，在大家惊叹中摄影师没反应过来后就消失了。下图就是没有摄影师/普通手机/相机的下场以下是网上其他的极光地点 (我只是做了一个总结，没去不作评论)：Fairbanks以外1. Chena Hot Springs: 暖和的极光小屋，从度假村步行上山15分钟即到，坐在屋里舒舒服服地等极光2. Chandalar Ranch (Fairbanks到Chena的路上)青旅; 北向视野开阔，有些单调，茫茫雪原上两棵树作为前景3. 北美最高峰Denali也是非常值得一提的前景。可以在公园深处的Wonder Lake营地拍摄，不过更好的地点是南边Park Highway旁的Denali Viewpoint South。Fairbanks1. Murphy Dome，距离Fairbanks市区40分钟车程，在人烟罕至的山顶。这里有个天文台做前景 2. Mount Aurora Lodge(2320 Fairbanks CreekRoad): 双层木屋 $270（可住四-五个人） 3. Ester Dome Road是很多攻略推荐过的极光点，离Fairbanks市区最近。但只有山顶的巨大天线可做前景4. Skiland滑雪场也经营极光小屋，收费每人20美元，提供热饮。这里经常人满为患。5. 开车沿Dalton Highway北上直到Wiseman小镇。从Fairbanks开到Wiseman要用7个小时，全程大半是土路，三月甚至还有冰雪。Dalton Highway上的风景绝无仅有，镇上有一家木屋旅馆Arctic Getaway Bed and Breakfast。一般SUV至少可以开到244英里处的Atigun Pass，再向北路况更差；Sukakpak Mountain在Wiseman以北20英里，是公路边一座拔地而起的高耸山峰2. Denali state park (国家公园)：有2个入口，一个在离Fairbanks近的地方(南边120miles – Park Rd)，开车能进去15miles(夏天5-9月份能更往里面开)，接下来可以选择徒步进入公园。第二个入口离Anchorage较近(离Fairbanks 225miles)，是看整个公园，山脉最好的地方，但只能徒步往里走。我们没有太多时间，只开到了Park Rd。左起：逸欣姐，波哥，我，响哥，端木大师，Chris姐，黄哥；前面：二宝姐Credit: Sky Duan Mu3. 滑雪：自己租雪具然后找地方就行了。雪具很便宜$18一天 (Beaver Sports) 随便滑，但我们租成了cross-country的了，脚后跟没有固定，不能滑，只能走，臂力要求较大。和普通滑雪区别很大，因为没法用身体左右平衡。黄哥没滑过雪，他反而适应cross-country雪具，在前面快速走着。我滑雪还算可以，反而狠狠的脚朝天摔了2次。P.S. 滑完雪吃点冰激凌还是可以的4. 泡温泉: Chena hot spring开车半小时就到了，门票$15，随便泡。但是一共就2-3个池子，水温也不高，没有桑拿感觉不爽。Ice museum和温泉在一起，只是一个冰屋子，我们没有进去。5. 狗拉雪橇 Dog mushing。$100被拉1hr，感觉一般。2-3人一个雪橇，坐在前面的比较颠6. 冰钓： 坐在暖气帐篷里等鱼上钩。$100 坐3hr，不推荐7. 其他：Santa Claus house (就是个圣诞礼品店)， 冰雕 (Fairbanks的一个小型冰雕展，跟国内冰雪节比弱爆了)，滑冰，保龄球(在Seoul Gate Restaurant楼上)，博物馆，登山(有一些trails可以自己走http://www.alaska.org/destination/fairbanks/parks-and-trails)。博物馆展出作品，感觉是现代版的American Gothic后记：3月份阿拉斯加还是冬天，没看见动物，下次夏天5-9月份就好了，同时其他项目如独木舟，爬冰川，邮轮游，Fairbanks市集etc也会开放了。攻略可以参考官网：http://www.explorefairbanks.com/；http://www.alaska.org/destinations 见闻去往Anchorage的飞机上，我跟旁边30几岁的当地大汉 – Joe Buck聊了起来，开始只是简单的问他当地有什么好玩的。他很认真的推荐景点，走哪些路etc，怕我记不下地名还特意给我画了个图。半夜1am浪费了他40mins。我看他不困，便继续和他聊了下去Me: So you were born and raised in Alaska?Joe: Pretty much. Now live close to Tok.Me: Sorry haven’t heard of it, just so you know, I’m not a local haha.Joe: It’s just East of Anchorage … (starts to draw the map carefully with his wrinkled but sturdy hands)Me: I’ve noticed that you had a plane logo on your hat, are you a pilot?Joe: Nah, this is just my hobby. I sold it recentlyMe: Damn that’s a cool hobby. But why did you sell it?Joe: Paid off family debt.Me: Mortgage?Joe: Yea, and some other debts.Me: How much did it cost?Joe: 60-70KMe: That’s ... cheap?Joe: somewhat yes. It’s a single-engine XXX with a 1950s engine ..Me: 1950s? You’re in one piece so I guess the engine still functionsJoe: The old engine is from 1950s but it’s been renewed a couple of times already.Me: And you feel safe flying it?Joe: It’s still in good conditions. I bought it and when it only has a couple thousand miles on it.Me: That’s pretty new.Joe: Yea, that’s why it cost 60-70K. What are you studying?Me: Finance.Joe: Ok, so have you heard of XXX (personal financer)Me: Sorry no.Joe: His book is very good, it tells you how to get off your debt and create wealth of your own.Me: That’s why you sold the plane?Joe: Paid of family debt yea. You should check out this book if you are in finance. There is another book, I forgot the name, the ideas were derived from this one.Me: I will remember it. When did you get into your hobby?Joe: I’ve always wanted to fly a plane when I was young, so I just bought one when later on.Me: Interesting. So now you’ve sold it, what do you do?Joe: This is only a hobby.Me: My bad, what’s your actual job?Joe: I’m a technician for XXX oil company. Basically checking flow of the pipe, machines etc.Me: So frontline or office/cubicle engineer?Joe: Out there in the snow.Me: What brings you to Seattle?Joe: I am undertaking a trainingMe: Firm-wide training?Joe: About 1-2 yrs we train at Texas.Me: Why not Fairbanks?Joe: No facility. (Pulls out his computer and start showing me photos of training exercises)Me: Ah, your boys are cute. How many kids do you have?Joe: (proudly) 5, 4 boys 1 daughter.Me: Wow, a basketball team already. Planning on having more?Joe: Actually I am thinking about itMe: Not too burdensome，financially or physically?Joe: It’s alright, they are still young. (Starts to show me each photo of his kids). The eldest is doing Karate atm.Me: His hobby?Joe: Yea, oh he loves it. Rank XXX in state …Me: Does your kids want to stay in Alaska when they grow up?Joe: I think so. Me: You gonna miss them if they move to other states?Joe: Oh definitely.Me: Well you have 5 kids, you can always travel to different states and stay with them in the future.Joe: haha yes I am planning on it. Me: (Pointing at the photos) Your kids seem to be enjoying themselves in the wild.Joe: That’s our house there.Me: Wow, in the mountains?Joe: Yea. So that our backyard, low fence to keep the wild animals out, and you can see the mountains from there.Me: Beautiful place.Joe: And we grow our vege. Here’s my daughter digging up some.Me: Must taste good and no artificial stuff.Joe: Nope, all natural.Me: Do you kids go out camping?Joe: Yea. Once every week or so. I take them out, sometimes the neighbor and their uncles. We fly out in the plane to the lakes. Now this is an island, but no one is on it.Me: So you basically own the island.Joe: haha yes. We would go fishing together ..Me: Did you ever get into an accident?Joe: A couple of times.Me: A couple of times?! In flight or when landingJoe: Both. The worst accident was when I was taking off at a short runway in the mountains. I knew I’d be a couple of feet short but I still gave it a go. Pulled the brake and give it full power. But after it cleared the runway it dropped.Me: Then what?Joe: The plane fell through some layers of trees, luckily. Didn’t land hard on the ground but one of the propeller was broken.Me: Luckily you were alright. How much did it cost to replace it? Body and engine?Joe: Well the engine weren’t broken, the braches could’ve gotten into the engine and shatter it. To replace the engine would cost about 30K. I could rebuild the body which is cheaper.Me: Man that’s intense. Your kids, do you allow them to go camping on their own?Joe: My kids were talking to me and I am going to let them go on their own next weekend.Me: No way, they are what, just 7?Joe: The eldest is 7.Me: And you dare to let them go on their own? Without you?Joe: Well, just near our backyard, not TOO far.Me: hahahha still a father.Joe: hahaha yea, they are kids. Me: So they can hunt yet?Joe: Yea, the eldest shot a moose the other day (showing me the photo)Me: That’s a big moose, impressive.Joe: Yea. Look how he’s smiling.Me: When did they first use the gun?Joe: Around 3.Me: 3??Joe: I hold the gun, load it, aim for them. They just pull the trigger and get the feel of it.Me: So he shot the moose by himself?Joe: This one I did. He was taking too long and in the end wounded it. I took over and shot it.Me: But shouldn’t you let him finish what he started?Joe: Well if I were to leave it to him, he would take more shots but wouldn’t kill the moose and we would go home empty-handed. I mean if we have enough meat for the winter it would be fine but I can’t go home knowing that we didn’t get some meat.Me: True.Joe: But he is a pretty good shooter now.Me: So how do you feel about letting your kids use the guns at such a young age? Joe: I don’t mind. The small one couldn’t hold the gun so I just load and hold for him. They have to learn to use a gun. The other day, as we were pulling up the driveway, my eldest son ran down, grabbed the riffle from the wall and shot in the driveway.Me: And you didn’t stop him?Joe: Well I could yell at him ‘hey what are you doing’ but I let him do what he did. Since he is old enough to know what he’s doing. Me: So what happened?Joe: He shot a XXX (rodent). See there teeth? These suckers will bleed out the chickens with one bite. He defended the house. Me: Man that’s crazy.Joe: Where are you from?Me: China.Joe: And you are here to study?Me: Yep, Master’s program.Joe: Whereabout?Me: Baltimore.Joe: Are you are here to travel?Me: Yea, with my friends, to see the Northern light.Joe: Ah, ok, good luck.Me: Fingers crossed.Joe: Is the Chinese education similar to U.S.?Me: Emm, sort of. But we have more peer competition back home.Joe: Yea? Is the teaching the same? Do you love to study?Me: Teaching is similar but there are more practices. Practice makes perfect. The U.S. teaching gives you 1 question and expects the students to figure out the core idea or function behind the question and apply that to different variations of the problem. The Chinese way of teaching is to prepare you for the different variations directly through practicing. I don’t love to study but I’m used to it. How about your kids?Joe: My sons don’t like to study, daughter is alright.Me: haha, girls are smarter than boys that’s true. They will be fine, it takes time.Joe: Do you have any methods of studying?Me: Not really. More practices I guess. If you are good at something, of course you will be somewhat interested in it right?Joe: Yea, he loves Karate, can’t wait to practice everyday.Me: Well there is a balancing point.Joe: How about yourself? Do you have any hobbies?Me: I played basketball, but haven’t played in a long time. Definitely no exposure to the wilderness like your children.Joe: Yea? You are not into nature?Me: No, it’s just that there are less opportunities to interact with mother nature in big cities. I would love to live like you guys. But I would be bored after like 2-3 months. Joe - Father of five, a man of his own
