2016-09-27
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作者：MMSZM
毕业了，在正式工作前想用空闲时间多跑跑路。组队，2个同学(语出惊人的finnick和女汉子巧克力)，然后在北美微论坛上找到一个CS PhD驴友(oh no & that's nice无灵魂大姐)，一起飞到vegas，开车转周围的国家公园。计划9/14-9/21，7天，每天一个国家公园，平均大约4-5小时开车。(原)行程· 14日Vegas集合，出发去Zion，住在Zion西部 附近旅馆· 15日Zion National Park，住在Zion东部 附近旅馆· 16日Bryce National Park + Spooky Canyon，住在Bryce附近旅馆· 17日Arches National Park，住在Moab附近Airbnb· 18日Monument Valley, 路过Canyonland National Park (没去)，开车到Antelope Canyon，住在附近旅馆· 19日Antelope Canyon 和Horseshoe Canyon, 住在之前同一旅馆。· 20日Grand Canyon，住在附近旅馆· 21日早起看日出 (没起)，在大峡谷呆到下午，之后开回VegasZionZion 去了2处：Angels Landing和The Narrows。园区内需要坐bus，Angels Landing坐到The Grotto Trailhead (stop 6)，The Narrows坐到Temple of Sinawava (stop 10)，沿着the Riverside Walk (2miles) 向上游走。我是一天没休息去了这两个地方，建议分两天时间才会充裕。Angels Landing 分为上山和锁道两部分，锁道指的就是上到最陡峭的山脊上。我自己3.5hr往返 (一般需要5hr以上)，上山走路2hr，锁道往返1hr，下山0.5hr (不应该跑下来的，导致现在膝盖有点疼)。花点时间，都能上山；但是锁道大家量力而行，过去这些年中有游客没扶稳然后摔下去的。上去之后觉得风景差不多，只是喜欢爬山的人会想上到顶部，毕竟成就感不一样吧。上面更晒，我又涂了层防晒霜，吃了包里的三明治，香蕉，水补充体力，就原路跑下去了。上山风景锁道部分顶部http://www.citrusmilo.com/zionguide/angelslanding.cfm https://www.nps.gov/zion/learn/photosmultimedia/angels-landing-ehike.htm The Narrows 是在河谷中跨水行走的路径，从下游往上游走(bottom-up)不用permit，从上往下需要permit。没有目的地，原路返回，所以进去后要保留体力回来。溪水很冰，水较浑浊但没有生物，只是溪底的泥沙和石块。最深的水位没过膝盖(50-60cm)，所以一定要拿1-2个登山杖，如果自己没有可以在visitor center买，或者在起点处(the Riverside Walk终点，捡大家不要的粗木枝)。建议登山靴+长袜，短裤，短袖+长袖，带足水和一定的食物。如果雨大会有突发的洪水，自己注意入口处提示和天气。个人的登山杖用法有二: 1. 探路，如果看不清路/水太深，将登山杖插进前面几米水中；2. 做支撑/平衡，如果感觉重心不稳/身子倾斜，就向倾斜的方向插登山杖。大概能看见水的深浅，走路挑 浅的地方>泥沙>小石块>大石块>看不见的深水，比较安全。走到后面就适应了，基本上7-8步能横跨河谷，怒甩看起来很专业的欧洲徒步背包客，还是很爽的。我自己从下往上走了2.5hr，听回程的欧洲人说前面再走1hr有瀑布(big spring)，但因为和朋友约定7pm上车，只能原路返回。顺水行走快了很多，1.5hr就回到了出发点。走完后觉得，真心不用走那么久，因为景色最好的是开始0.5hr，后面就大(shen)同(mei)小(pi)异(lao)了。最初40%石头+沙地，60%水；之后基本90%水路。一路60%欧洲，30%美国，10%亚洲面孔，而且越往后人越少，最后河谷里就偶尔迎面见到回来的人，相视一笑，继续前行。很多欧洲妹子跟着汉子一起走，看起来很有爱，觉得以后体力是选女票硬标准。http://www.citrusmilo.com/zionguide/zionnarrows.cfmhttps://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/thenarrows.htm 未去· Upper emrald pool trail (0.8km)：时间来不及· The Subway：需要permits，与narrows类似，但是景色更美(从官网图片来看)BryceBryce 园区内基本是开车到每一个viewpoint照相。也可以下到谷底走loop，但是烈日当头，又没有特别的景色或者徒步乐趣，我们就没有下去。我们认为景色最好的是最近的sunrise point 和sunset point，两点相隔300m。顾名思义，sunrise point 就是一个朝东的突出山角，反之就是sunset point，自己找这两个时间段来看朝阳和落日应该会不错。最远的rainbow point人最多，就是从另外一个角度欣赏sunrise & sunset point。其他的point有很多，拿个图开车随便转就行了。一天后就发现，同行的finnick，大姐，巧克力，大家都是不同类型的逗比奇葩未去· Dixie National forest· Walk: queens/Navajo combination loop, peekaboo loopSpooky Canyon 在Bryce东部，基本没人去(之后才知道真不能算是大众景点)。但是我查到图片很美，而且这段路不长，于是说服team从bryce开到Escalante小镇，然后向南开了1hr土路 (25miles)，到spooky canyon附近。俄罗斯夫妇在入口处玩DJI。山谷很静，所以无人机的声音很容易听到。从入口处到spooky canyon大概是1mile，完全是石头和沙地滑坡。一共有3个trail，选择最左边的trail，其他两个trail是走一走从上面俯视canyon，没有路到spooky canyon。开始我们走错了，选了最右边的道，结果没有往下的路。我看到有两个背包客在山脊上走了一条路，就跳下，从斜边插到那条路上。不建议这样，有点危险。在上面俯视canyon图真正的道，沿路会有这种石块搭起来的 ‘石塔’，看见这些石塔就知道自己是在正确的道上。我下去的时候，问了迎面回来的老伯路，他热心的给我讲，然后给我了一个图，说也是别人给他的 (不好意思我之后没人下去了，图就在我手上了，没能传下去)。这张图很有用，之后我才理解。主要有3个canyon：Dry Fork, Peekaboo, Spooky。图上黄线都是绕着canyon走，比较远；shortcut 就是穿越canyon· 有两条路进入: 1. 可以从图上黄线走，到spooky canyon另一端，然后从北往南穿越；2. 直接由南向北穿越。· 有三条路出: 1. 沿原路返回; 2. 穿越之后沿着图上黄线绕回; 3. 穿越之后先沿着spooky canyon上面走，走到回来大约3/4处，跳下spooky canyon，在原路返回。第三个是我的路线，也是最快的，但是跳下canyon比较危险。沿着最左边的道，走到底的沙地上会看到一个铁盒子，就到谷底了，然后就能看到spooky canyon入口 (下图是从spooky canyon出来时的照片，进去的时候是面对canyon，图中最右的缺口)其实spooky canyon还是挺人性化的，有点像fraternity/ sorority的pledge。最难的部分就是开始爬上去。如果能爬上去，后面没问题；如果开始上不去，就别想后面的路了。进入canyon，需要翻上爬下600m左右才能出去。上肢力量比下肢重要。有的地方比肩宽还窄，背包在壁上划得很响。里面除了自己外完全没人，是我最享受的一段旅行。Spooky Canyon 很像Antelope Canyon (羚羊谷)，但是摄影没有那么好看(因为太窄了，阳光洒不进来)，对于徒步爱好者来说前后无人，自由探险的经历是Antelope不能比拟的。20分钟后走出注意· 最好是登山靴/高帮鞋能发沙和保护脚腕· 沙地上会有仙人掌，蜘蛛，蜥蜴等，自己注意。天空中盘旋的鹰和乌鸦还是有点意思的。未去· Hole in rock: spooky canyon继续向南开20miles (1hr)土路P.S. Escalante小镇附近有许多canyon，可以自己探索一下。感觉以后还会去的https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canyons_of_the_Escalante Arches在出发地租车，坐车进去，最短package是1.5hr，我们觉得就够了。里面有很多Arch(拱门)和山脊，凭自己想象力看像什么吧。P.S. Monument Valley可以在出发地租车杀价。原价$85，我们说$30 (应该能砍到$20左右)。我们4个和另外一个英国老伯拼一辆吉普车，一半以上座位是空的，明白了他们一辆车拉多少人都行，怎么都是有得赚的。在去Monument Valley的路上，会经过一条笔直的公路，team也不会错过大众照相地点。其实最惊喜的是从arches出来，住的Moab小镇。里面很多别致的gallery, giftshop, rare bookstore，非常值得逛。Finnick和大姐买了$100+的小东西。airbnb主人推荐小镇上的泰餐Arches Thai，太地道了，最好吃的一餐。一家bbq也不错，忘名字了Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, Lake powell主要是Antelope，分为Upper 和 Lower。一般照相会去Upper，最好的时间是11am-1pm (peak hours)，这样正午的阳光才能照进峡谷。每个tour都会分为photographic和scenic: photographic是给专业摄影者的行程，价格较贵，需要自备专业相机和三脚架才能进入；scenic是给普通游客准备的行程，不能带专业相机和三脚架 (否则没法区分摄影者和游客，也就不能有photographic tour的额外收费了，商业头脑确实不错)。直接上原图后期修了一下 (照片credit朋友)摄影大叔自制相机，以及围着光柱照相的一群注：有很多家公司都有进入antelope的行程，都需要提前预定，有的几个月前就预定完了。· http://www.antelopecanyon.com/reserve.html (需要4个月前预定)· http://www.powellmuseum.org/tours_reserve.php: 1.5hr $58· http://navajotours.com/photo-gallery/: 1hr $40· https://www.navajoantelopecanyon.com/tours.html: 1.5hr $58· https://www.antelopeslotcanyon.com/reservations (online)upper和lower区别：· You need a guide for both; upper and lower entrance stations are across the highway from each other.· Upper Antelope is flat and sandy and the more popular of the two. ride in a guides truck up the sandy wash to access the canyon. You can drive up to the tour entrance area and wait for the next available tour.Or you can book a tour in town and they will drive you out there. You don't need to book it at the Courtyard, its very easy to drive yourself to the entrance gate.摘自· https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g60834-i239-k4846492-Upper_or_Lower_Antelope_Canyon_Best_time_of_day_in_mid_Oct-Page_Arizona.html· https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antelope_CanyonHorseshoe BendLake Powell朋友是坐游轮欣赏lake powell的，也可以自己租独木舟，但需要提前预定，而且时间较长 (一般2天以上，沿着Colorado River下飘)。照片credit朋友未去波浪谷 The Wave/Marble Canyon (Coyote Buttes North): 需要提前4个月网上预定，每天网上抽签，有10个permit； 或者直接到入口处，现场抽签，也有10个permit。听说每天有80-100人，只有10个现场permit，拼rp吧。Coyote Buttes South也需要抽签，但是没有'wave'感觉。https://www.blm.gov/az/paria/obtainpermits.cfm?usearea=CBhttp://www.thewave.info/CoyoteButtesNorthCode/Map.htmlhttp://www.thewave.info/CoyoteButtesSouthCode/Map.html Waterhole Canyon (Horseshoe Bend以南2miles): 2miles (1.5hr 往返)，近处看Colorado River。好像需要permit (Upper Antelope Canyon入口处 or Navajo Parks and Recreation)http://www.thewave.info/WaterholesCode/Map.html独木舟 Kayak: 一般是沿着Colorado River向下http://www.lakepowellhiddencanyonkayak.com/antelope-canyon-kayak/ http://www.kayakpowell.com/antelope-slot-canyon-and-kayak-tour-package-deals Grand CanyonGrand Canyon分North rim 和 South rim。· north 一般是徒步走进去比较好玩，也可以皮划艇顺河而下，都需要几天时间和跟专业的队走。· south 是普通游客照相的景点。进入grand canyon会稍堵 (20mins)，出来没问题。早上天气稍晴，但云很厚，也就没有早起看日出。从hotel开到Grand Canyon，照相。小时候来的时候就是阴天，13年后仍然一样，小失望未去· Bike route: http://bikegrandcanyon.com/bike-rentals/biking-routes/ · North Rim: 时间太长，有瀑布，下次去 http://www.mygrandcanyonpark.com/swimming-holes/ · Skywalk (west rim): 离vegas较近的玻璃桥 Supai Village and waterfall: route 66 – Indian Rd 18 - Hualapai Hilltop Highway。必须过夜(定里面的酒店或者自己带帐篷)。可以跟团进去 · Arizona Outback Adventures (AOA) https://aoa-adventures.com/havasupai-3-day/ Vegas最后一天，本来计划早起去grand canyon看日出，但是有云，所以就睡到自然醒。去峡谷呆了20分钟，然后下午直接开车去vegas outlets逛店，晚上逛了一下各大酒店的招牌，没时间赌一把了，差点没赶上飞机。没什么照片，跟小时候印象一样，就是挥金的地方，没有太多好感。总结· Zion 和 Bryce是徒步爱好者的天堂；Monument Valley，Antelope Canyon，Grand Canyon基本是摄影爱好者觉得有意思。照片不多，也不会照，其他人都在网上发过，想看自己搜去吧。· 不同时区 。vegas: UTC-8, Utah/Arizona/Mountain Standard Time (MST): UTC-7· 查好天气。最后一天的Grand Canyon下雨，底下雾蒙蒙，什么都看不清，几个人就在hotel休息+逗比了一个下午，第二天开车去vegas outlets了直接· 园区附近都会有小镇。日用品，吃的，纪念品都有· 有很多徒步的路线Hikes: http://www.justroughinit.com/all-trips 衣· 一定带防晒霜，墨镜，水，徒步/走路/舒适鞋。晚上会有些凉，需要长袖长裤· 沙尘大的时候有纱巾最好。登山杖不太需要，如果你能上去，基本不用登山杖；需要登山杖的，你也上不去食· 酒店或者小镇上都有早餐· 我们每天基本晚上7-8点才到酒店，本来餐厅就不多 ，所以剩下吃的基本是American和快餐· 不推荐园区附近的任何Mexican，咸而且味道很怪住· 园区附近都会有hotel。我一直最喜欢La Quinta，性价比和服务很好。如果人多可以直接租airbnb一个house比较划算行· 路况很好。如果不去偏僻的地方(spooky canyon，开车进monument valley)，就不会有土路，普通轿车2WD就够了· 所有公园买permit都能开车进去，私家车1辆$25-30，permit都是1周有效。但是有的路只能特定的公交能开，自己注意见闻Zion: 50岁左右老夫妇 – 在爬angels landing时交错往上走，认识了。之后从the narrows回到出发地时候的公交上又遇到了，缘分。Grandpa: (smiles)Me: oh hey! I didn’t even see you there sorry. You guys just came down?Grandma: YEA, took a dayGrandpa: you came from the narrows?Me: oh YEA, it was freezing in the water. You guys going?Grandpa: tomorrow yeaMe: yea you got to walk 3.5hrs to reach the falls, anywhere before that is not really worth it. Might as well just walk 30mins in and return since the views are amazing for the first 30minsGrandpa: okay, we will give it a shotMe: where else are you guys going?Grandpa: zion, bryce and XXXMe: not grand canyon?Grandpa: we’ve been there last yearMe: avid traveler I seeGrandma: hehe just running aroundGrandpa: Have you ever been to Spooky Canyon?Me: Oh yea, I am planning to go there tomorrowGrandma: it was AMAZING, we loved itMe: oh yea? Now I have to goGrandpa: yea definitely, it took a day though.Me: did you guys ever went to an oriental country? i.e southeast asiaGrandma: no actually we haven’t. but I’ve wanted to go to Vietnam, Thailand etc.Me: you guys should plan a trip, the culture is very different and diverse from European countries and U.S.…Grandpa: I was kayaking down the river between Alaska and XXX …Me: that’s awesome! I wanted to go but we only have a few days and the kayaking would take at least 3 daysGrandpa: oh longer, we were on the river for quite some timeMe: brought food and suppliers with you right?Grandpa: yea we were camping on the river at nightMe: I missed out so muchGrandma: the food was average but the experience was uniqueMe: haha I guess you didn’t love it as much as him (grandpa)Grandma: oh no I did enjoy it but he LOVED itMe: looks like itGrandpa: there were whales around usMe: WHALES?Grandpa: yea cuz it was near Alaska and XXX, to the north of XXXMe: that’s coolGrandpa: (showing me the photos) that’s the boat, and that’s the whaleMe: an ACTUAL whale?!Grandpa: yea, here’s one that’s closerMe: and you took this photo?! How close was it?Grandpa: about 10-20 meters awayMe: and you weren’t scaredGrandpa: no I took the photoMe: lucky you are here, else you won’t be enjoying this photo as muchGrandpa: haha trueVegas: 40-year-old ginger Uber driver – 在航班30mins内要飞的情况下，在高速上和他闲侃Me: Uber money’s pretty good here in vegas right?Driver: yep, made $1900 last weekMe: damn?!Driver: yea things get going during conventions and events, you get auto shows, exhibitions etc. CES had around 180,000 coming in and that was a great week, $1900 as wellMe: how much do you average per annum?Driver: well, low weeks get 11-13k, good weeks get 19k, so average monthly around 50-60kMe: you do this full-time?Driver: nah, real estate agent, do this part time after workMe: how many hours do you do this?Driver: around 7-8hrs after workMe: man that’s full-time jobDriver: yea pretty much no life, but I am single and after the bank account filled up, it’s still pretty goodMe: you don’t sayDriver: I take vacationsMe: where to? Vegas? lolDriver: haha, actually AWAY from vegasMe: haha atlantic city ftw!Driver: oh yea definitelyMe: just like homeDriver: last time I went to panama city for 3 weeks, it was cheap and the columbian girls were fine …Me: gotta get me some of thatDriver: yea $1400 for 3 weeksMe: central America here I comeDriver: and the girls don’t mind an old geezer like me, as long as you are chill and chat with themMe: in English?Driver: I speak a bit of SpanishMe: Española Si?Driver: pizza mediana con el desmoche de la salchicha extra y una cerveza fría por favorMe: all I heard was ‘pizza’Driver: yea my Spanish is limited to ordering pizzaMe: hhahahhDriver: no but if you speak a bit of Spanish, you would come off much betterMe: you don’t sayDriver: last time I was with this Columbian girl, she is with my friend but doesn’t speak a word of English. My friend left her with me and she wanted to go shopping, window shopping and get some food …Me: let me guess, you guys went for pizzaDriver: haha actually she wanted crepes and tops, bikini, dresses etc. It was pretty funMe: good timesDriver: you bet
