“召集远征队员，工资微薄，极度寒冷，数个月的完全黑暗之日，危险常伴左右，全身而退，不太可能。但若成功，荣耀无尽。” ---南极先驱：欧内斯特·沙克尔顿爵士“Men wanted for hazardous journey, small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful. Honor and recognition in case of success.” --- Sir Earnest Shackleton【注】为了给您带来最好的阅读体验，中英内容可能略有不同。当然，对英文不感冒的小伙伴们不用担心啦！[NOTE] For your best reading experience, Chinese and English contents may differ at times. If you do not wish to read both, that is perfectly fine as well.写在前面/Prelude在这篇游记中，您将看到：-数以百万的企鹅-全世界最小的首都-长着小短腿的猕猴桃-南极先驱们的英雄伟业-离撞上冰山仅三十秒的惊险-南极游轮以及其他的独家攻略In this journal, you will find:-millions of penguins-the smallest capital of the world-kiwi fruits with stubby legs-heroic accomplishments of Antarctic precursors-30 seconds from hitting an iceberg-about Antarctic cruise and other exclusive information在动笔开始筹备写作本文之际，我已经在这个世界上游历了将近一百万公里了，走过的路相当于去到月球，再返回的距离。环球二十余圈，我拜访了人类最机智巧妙的创造，体验了大自然最鬼斧神工的画作，但是令我至今唯一久久不能忘怀的，便是福克兰和南乔治亚岛。这几个鲜为人知的隐秘岛屿，漂浮在现实和神话的交界，给每一位知晓其存在的人无穷的灵感和敬畏。毫不夸张的说，这是我去过最令人心潮澎湃的地方，乃至数年之后，每次我看到百万企鹅仰天长鸣的照片，我的心跳还是会不受控制地加快。As of the moment of writing this journal, I have traversed this world for nearly one million kilometers, equivalent to going to the moon, and then come back. After twenty-something trips around the globe, I have paid homage to humanity's most ingenious creations, experienced mother nature's most unbelievable manifestations, yet one thing that I cannot get my back off from, is Falklands and South Georgia. These hardly-mentioned isles drift between reality and myths, empowering every person who knows about them with immeasurable inspiration and awe. Without exaggeration, these are the most exhilerating places I have been to. After all these years, every time I see the photo of millions of penguins trumpeting under the azure skies, it uncontrollably sends chills down my spine.很多人都看过南极大陆，赞美了它纯洁的白色，壮丽的冰山。但是就很少人能够登上这几个离南极大陆本身数千公里的亚南极岛屿。路途遥远，气候恶劣，多多少少的人看着这个天堂，站在大门之外，却又望而却步。Many have been to Antarctic mainland, praised its pristine white, the glorious icebergs, yet few have managed to make landfall on these sub-Antarctic island thousands of miles from the mainland. The gruesome journey, inclement weather, both stopped so many who have stood outside the gates of this heaven, and halted their steps.但是他们错过的，却是南极最珍藏的秘密至宝。这个寒冷的大陆可能也有企鹅和冰山，但是福克兰和南乔治亚完全站上了另一个档次。这里珍贵的冰原草地是南极本土永远无法拥有的，而也正是因为它们的地理位置，这个本该荒芜的两个荒岛成为了南极所有亮点最完美的结合地。However, what they missed out, is the secret jewel of Antarctica. The mainland proper may also have penguins and icebergs, but South Georgia is on a completely different level. The rare tundra grasslands is something mainland can never have, and thanks to their perfect location, these lands which are supposed to be barren have become the perfect location for everything symbolizing Antartica.企鹅，冰山，传奇，雪峰，你心目中的南极这里应有尽有，但是你没想到的是，这里的企鹅比所有其他地方加起来都要多；这里的冰山比纪录片中看到的还要晶莹剔透；这里的雪峰比最狂野的想象还要高大，这里的故事比传说之中还要令人诧异。Penguins, icebergs, sagas, snowy peaks, whatever you have pre-conceived as Antarctic, here has it all. However, what you have not conceived, is that there are more penguins here than the rest of the world combined; the icebergs here exude blue better than in the documentaries; the snowy peaks stand taller than the wildest of your imaginations; and the stories are more exhilerating than in those legends.福克兰群岛不但是英国和阿根廷当年交战的关键，而且更是现在众多鸟儿的最后一片栖息地。这就是世界的边缘，既是文明在冰封世界的前哨站，也是大自然无尽想象的源泉。Falkland Island is not just the focal point of a war between Great Britain and Argentina, but also the last home for many kinds of birds. This is the edge of the world, both the last bastion of humanity against the frigid world, and the spring of nature's unbridled imagination.而下一站，南乔治亚岛，曾有一位南极专家说过：“南乔治亚，是比南极更加像南极的地方。”那你还等什么？和我一起出发，来到这个仙境一般的孤岛吧，让我们跟循着当年伟大探险家们的脚步，发现世界另外一端的奇迹。And my next stop is South Georgia Island. The real experts would tell you:“South Georgia is more Antarctic than Antarctica.”So what are you waiting for? Accompany me, and let's go to this mythical lone island! We shall follow the great explorers of the bygone years, and discover the miracle on the other side.欢迎来到南极，欢迎来到南极诸岛，欢迎来到邃蓝的企鹅天堂。Welcome to Antarctica; welcome to Antarctic Islands; welcome to the perpetual penguin paradise.缘由和行程/Motivation and Itinerary我拍板旅行的目的很简单：我在2016想要在一年内去到世界上七大洲，而南极洲也算是其中之一。在此之前，我已经完成了非洲、亚洲、北美洲、南美洲、大洋洲还有欧洲，最后一个只剩下了南极洲。以这个神秘的大陆来完成我的人生一大目标可算是再合适不过了。My intention to take this voyage is simple: I wanted to visit all 7 continents in 1 year, and Antarctica is, shockingly, a continent! I had finished Africa, Asia, North America, South America, Oceania and Europe, and Antarctica as a finish for this life goal of mine could not be even more appropriate. (I do have a fully updated, comprehensive English blog. If you are interested, search "beyounged" in google and find the second result for the front page.)这是我在穷游上撰写的第一篇游记，所以也请大家多多支持，多多指教！如果有任何问题，想要看到世界上哪里的游记，亦或是对我的写作有建议，请随时在评论区和我指出。如果很喜欢我的双语作品的话，也请点个赞，或是分享到朋友圈啦！This is my first journal on qyer, so I hope everyone can give me any feedback or suggestion. If you have a question, want to request the location of my next journal, or constructive criticism about my writings, please do point them out in the comment section. And if you take a liking of my bilingual contents, please hit a like, or perhaps share it with your friends and family!我的南极洲之行是一次将近一个月的长途航行，分为两部分。本文是福克兰和南乔治亚；下一部分是南极大陆。This Antarctica part is a long voyage about one month long, and is divided into 2 parts.This part is about Falklands and South Georgia;Next part is Antarctic Islands and Antarctica mainland proper.上图：福克兰群岛在世界上的位置/Above: position of Falklands in the world下图：南乔治亚在世界上的位置/Below: position of South Georgia in the world上图：南极航行路线图/Above: Antarctica voyage route map【注】由于大部分地区没有中文名，所有地名为个人翻译。由于此次探险不适合穷游的行程单，具体行程如下：第一天：在阿根廷乌斯怀亚市登船，穿越比格尔海峡，航行离开南美大陆第二天：公海航行第三天：抵达福克兰群岛，上午在西点West Point登陆，下午在死尸岛Carcass Island登陆第四天：在首都斯坦利自由观光，下午启航前往南乔治亚岛Detailed itinerary is as of the following:Day 1: Board the ship in Ushuaia, Argentina, cross Beagle Channel and depart from South America mainlandDay 2: open seaDay 3: Arrive at Falkland Islands, morning landing at West Point, and afternoon at Carcass IslandDay 4: Free exploration in the captial, Stanley, and then depart for South Georgia Island in the afternoon下图：福克兰群岛行程地图/Below: itinerary in Falkland Islands上图：南乔治亚行程地图/Above: itinerary in South Georgia第五天：公海航行第六天：公海航行第七天：抵达南乔治亚岛最西端，上午于Elsehul他人湾登陆，下午登陆点为Right Whale Bay露脊鲸湾第八天：上午登陆点为Salisbury Plain索尔斯堡平原，下午登陆点为Prion Island普里昂岛第九天：抵达南乔治亚岛中心段，上午在Fortuna Bay福图纳湾登陆，下午靠岸并探索群岛首都Grytviken古利德维肯第十天：上午登陆St. Andrews Bay圣安德鲁斯湾，下午航行进入岛最东部的Drygalski Fjord德瑞伽尔斯基峡湾第十一天：启程出发前往南奥克尼群岛（之后行程请见南极大陆游记，请戳以下链接！）https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3437689-1.htmlDay 5: open seaDay 6: open seaDay 7: arrived at the westernmost part of South Georgia, morning landing at Elsehul, afternoon landing at Right Whale BayDay 8: morning landing at Salisbury Plain, afternoon landing at Prion IslandDay 9: arrived at the central portion of the island, morning landing at Fortuna Bay, afternoon docked and explored capital GrytvikenDay 10: morning landing at St. Andrews Bay, and afternoon cruised through the easternmost part of the island at Drygalski FjordDay 11: begin sailing towards South Orkney Islands(please refer to the Antarctica mainland journal for the itinerary afterwards, the link is below)https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3437689-1.html启程：乌斯怀亚港/Embarkment: Ushuaia Port第一天，2016年10月24日多云，五节西风，十摄氏度54°48'S, 68°18'WDay 1, October 24thcloudy, 5 knots west wind, 10 °C下午四点，我缓缓走向了乌斯怀亚的码头办公室，心中有些忐忑。大部分同行者们已经聚集在了小岗哨之外，其中便是查理和克里斯汀。我们刚开始寒暄，办公室里面的一个管理员出来了，检查完我们的确认信之后，把一行人带到了码头边，眼前就是这次的大牌明星，我们的船，乌斯怀亚号。她的甲板上全是工作人员，忙忙碌碌地准备着这一年度的第一次航行。It was 4 p.m.; I walked towards the tiny office of the Ushuaia port. A handful of travelers had already congregated outside, and amongst them Charlie and Christine. While we were just starting to talk, we were called by a port authority staff, and handed in our confirmation printouts. We walked down the long dock to our ride, and tadaa, standing right in front of us was the magnificent MV Ushuaia. Her bridge was already manned with a full set of crew, busy preparing for the first voyage of the season.终于，在官方的“手续”都了结之后，船上的服务团队成员如酒保，厨师，工程师，清洁员，服务员等等，都在登船桥旁边一字排开，欢迎我们登船。我喜滋滋地跳上了我接下来二十多天的家，走到房间里面一看，诶，还不错，小小的三人间坐落在船的右侧，既方便又温馨。Upon the completion of beureaucracy kerfuffles, all service members such as the bartender, chefs, engineers, cleaners, and servers, welcomed us at the gangway to MV Ushuaia. I gladly stepped onto the floating fortress where I would call home for the next 20 days, and looked into my room, a cozy 3 bed dorm on the starboard side. There weren't too many amenities, but I am a modest man.下图：船某层甲板的示意图/Below: a map of a deck on the ship我站在最高点，远眺乌斯怀亚市中心，心里感慨万分。我在这个改变人生的旅途之后将对这个世界拥有截然不同的一种看法，怀着一个与众不同的眼光。一股思绪翻涌之后，广播里面播报了即将举行欢迎酒会的消息，所以我急匆匆的来到休息室，和大家分享一杯美酒，祝福此次远征圆满顺利。六点钟响，乌斯怀亚号一声长鸣，便渐渐地离开了码头，正式启航前往这世界上最神秘的大陆。Perching on the top, I looked into Ushuaia city, and had little idea how much the world would have changed by the time I return to this place. Would my view on this world change by the end of this transcendental journey? A welcome cocktail was announced over the PA, and I appeared in the bar/lounge area to meet other fellow travelers, and shared a glass of champagne. By 6p.m., the ship sounded the horn, and promptly pulled out from the harbor, officially embarking on the sail towards the mysterious continent.上图：再见，乌斯怀亚市/Above: farewell, Ushuaia上图：我，克里斯汀，和查理在安全演习/Christine, Charlie and me during a safety drill八点多钟，在夕阳逐渐从南美大陆逝去之时，我们在餐厅里面聚集了起来，祈祷着一次丰富多彩而又安全无恙的航行，之后便大快朵颐。Almost 8 p.m, light illuminated the South American continent for one last time as we gathered in the dining room. We prayed for a safe and meaningful journey, and promptly began devouring dinner上图：晚餐/Above: dinner第二天，10月25日阴、晴、雨，19节西北风，九摄氏度Day 2, October 25thovercast/sunny/rainy, 19 knots northwest wind, 9°C在海上，没有什么比赏鸟更适合的了。我来到了甲板上，看着船后一大堆的海鸟，与乌斯怀亚号一同前往几百公里外的福克兰群岛。其中便有很多黑眉信天翁，它们画的花里胡哨的黑色眉毛最好辨认了。尽管它们是最小的信天翁种类，它们的翼展也达到了两米半呢。Nothing beats watching birds during days on the sea. I joined an old birdwatcher couple at the back of the deck, and sat down facing the large flock of seabirds that decided to follow us on the long journey to Falklands. I immediately spotted a few black-browed albatrosses, which were very easy to distinguish because of their make-up on the brows. Even though they are the smallest species of the albatrosses, their wingspan still reaches more than 2 and a half meters.这一群鸟之中还有很多其他的物种，下图你看得到的是巨型海燕，体型仅仅比之前所说的信天翁要小一点点而已，由于它们的鼻子有专门用于排出海水多余盐分的分叉结构，所以他们看起来鼻孔很大。A lot of other species were also in the pack. Giant petrels were enormous birds that were only second in size to the albatrosses(below), and they looked slightly less presentable due to their bifurcated nostrils used to excrete hypersaturated salt water.上图：海角海燕/Above: Cape petrel上午，我们和生物学家胡丽叶塔上了一堂生物课。她教了我们如何系统地识别所有的信天翁，海燕，以及其他海鸟。结束之后，大半船的人一拥而上，都和胡丽叶塔一起跑上了主甲板前方去尝试着识别那些鸟儿们。可惜的是，这时候已经没有多少鸟还跟在我们后面了。In the morning, we had a lecture with our onboard biologist Julieta. We were taught a systematic way to identify the different types of albatrosses, petrels and others. Barely upon the conclusion of the lesson, nearly everyone decided to put our newly acquired skills to use in the front of the main deck. Unfortunately, fewer birds remained at the tail of our wake by that time.下图：南极燕鸥/Below: Antarctic tern海上的一天/A Day on the Ocean午餐后，摸摸圆鼓鼓的肚腩，下午便是大部分老年乘客睡下午觉的时光，所以整个下午日程表上没有什么安排。在休息室，你可以看得到东趴西躺着好几个老大妈和老大爷们，嘴巴张的大大的，口水直流。没有时机比现在更适合介绍这海上城堡的一天啦！The afternoon was nap time for most of the elderly passengers; therefore, there was not too much scheduled. You could see old ladies and gentlemen lying around, napping with their mouths gaping open. What time could be better than this dull moment to detail how a day would go onboard this moving home?早上一般都是由本次探险的带队人奥古斯丁通过广播叫早的，他总是会用洪亮的嗓子扯一把“早上好，诸位南极人们！！！”听惯了之后，这个中二热血的称呼还真的就被大家用上了，到旅程快结束的时候大家都互相道“南极人”打招呼了。早餐之后便是上半天的活动。如果我们在大海中漂泊，那一般就会是一场讲座，如果我们在陆地边，我们就会仔细地全副武装起来准备登陆。不论如何，全船的人都需要回到船上用午餐。下午一般都超级慵懒，要么全部的人倒下睡觉，要么全部使出吃奶的劲再下船登陆天堂一次。Morning calls are always announced via the PA system by the expedition leader, Augustin. He always begins with a loud, resonating “GOOD MORNING, ANTARCTICANSS!!!”It had practically become a meme by the end of our voyage, with every person on board adressing each other by the title of “Antarcticans”.Breakfast is then served, with the scheduled morning activities. If we are floating on the ocean, it will likely be a lecture; if we are at a destination, then we usually take our sweet time to dress up and do a landing.The entire group always has to come back to the ship to have lunch. The afternoons, no matter what, are always sleepy. However, on some rare occasions, we would luck out and do another landing to maximize the value of our precious time in heaven.下图：张贴出来的每日行程/Below: Daily schedule published on board还有便是我最喜欢做的事，在最高层的观景台站着，一动不动的眺望着远方的大海波粼，想着我人生的过去和未来，一看就是好几个小时，直到眼皮都被冻得失去了知觉。下午四点半是我一天之中最喜欢的时分：因为这是下午茶时间啊！厨子们会端出每天翻花样的小点心，让大家吃个痛快I would also stand on top of the I deck to watch the ocean, while pondering about my life, for hours and hours. Sometimes it got so cold that I could not feel my eyelids. Usually a snack plate is presented in the bar around 4:30pm.晚餐根据阿根廷的传统时间，用的比较晚。晚餐后，一般休息室里面会播放关于南极的纪录片，那之后我要么和其他小伙伴们在吧台小酌一杯，要么在房间里倒下去呼呼大睡。这就是船上的一天啦！Dinner was always served late per Argentinean rituals. After dinner, a documentary is usually shown, and I either enjoy a drink with the others in the bar, or fall asleep from food coma.That is a day on the ship~!公海航行/Open Sea话回正题，大家一觉睡饱之后参加了一场安全事项简报，主要讨论了如何正确使用登陆所需的zodiac小皮艇。此时，一场大暴雨袭来，把好几位水手淋得措手不及，狼狈的逃进室内。雨过之后，一道美丽的双彩虹浮现天边，如天使到来一般的两道天弧。Now, back to the quiet afternoon. Right after the briefing about landings which informed us about the correct usage of these small rubber ships called zodiacs, we experienced a heavy shower, while instantly drenched a few unsuspecting staff members, also produced a brilliant double rainbow.看彩虹的人群很快便消散了，可是我还是选择站在最高层，看着海，呼吸着新鲜空气，也恰好看到了这辈子最美好的日落。The crowd watching rainbow dissipated quickly, yet I spent hours in the dusk at the top deck for fresh air, and got the chance to witness the most beautiful sunset in my life.这难道不是天堂吗？我看着夜晚慢慢的降临在这片至南的海域，几个小时之后，在福克兰群岛，全新的一天即将开始。Isn't this surreal? I watched the night dawning on the southernmost piece of ocean, and in a few hours, a new day would begin, in Falkland Islands/Malvinas.福克兰群岛/Falkland Islands第三天，10月26日晴，19节西南风，七摄氏度西点West Point 51°21'S,60°41'W死尸岛Carcass Island 51°18'S,60°33'WDay 3, October 26thsunny, 19knots southwest wind, 7°C西点/West Point在福克兰的第一天，我们乘着zodiac橡皮摆渡船，登陆到了一个叫做西点的小小镇子。在我们穿着厚重的橡胶鞋踏在海滩上时，全村两人都围了上来欢迎我们。没错，全岛只住了两个人，就一对老夫妇！On the first day in Falklands, we boarded small rubber boats called zodiacs, and landed onto the tiny colony of West Point with the entire village coming to welcome us. Both villagers hugged us as we stepped ashore with our rubber boots, and yes I said “both” since the entire village had just one couple!我们即刻开始徒步横穿这个小岛，前往一个鸟类繁育地。好多水鸟都在这个安静的小海湾里面休憩，包括了臭名昭著的长腿秃鹰（下图），这是一种杂食性鸟类。它们自大到以为可以只身把人类叼走，所以非常喜欢俯冲下来乱抓人们的头。We started walking up all the way across the island towards the bird colony. A lot of waterfowls dwelled in the tranquil bay, and amongst them the notorious Straited Caracara(below). It is a bird of prey that has gotten used to clawing human heads because they thought they could lift us off by the head.没想到的是，我是第一个遭难的。在我找到帽子戴上之前，一只鹰俯冲下来直接就给我头顶来了一下利爪攻击。一只黑眉信天翁也在附近，看着我惊慌失措，快要笑了出来。However, before I could find any head cover, I fell victim to this immediately, and I had to chase off one of these sharp-clawed devils before putting up a hoodie. A black-browed albatross was also around to greet me, almost laughing aloud watching me panic.一路走过绿油油的草地，终于来到了一片本地特有的高草丛。这植物为所有鸟儿们提供了一个避风而又安全的产卵地，没了它，这个栖息地将一去不返。但是，在过去的数百年来，这个特别的草几乎已被啃伐殆尽，所以这一片最后的净土必须要被一人高的大栅栏完全隔开才可以阻止羊群入侵。After a short walk pass the grassy hills, we finally reached the large patch of tussock grass. This type of vegetation is crucial for the birds because it provides cover from the harsh winds. However, sheep herding has decimated this type of landscape. As a result, this patch of tussock had to be fenced around to prevent overgrazing.下图：嘈杂不堪的栖息地/Below: Habitat full of commotion这里可是有两种完全八竿子打不着的鸟合住的，尽管有点挤，但是可热闹了。黑眉信天翁便是住户之一。这可是数量最大的信天翁种类，一般可以活到七十岁。它们在九月至十一月之间来到这里，在泥巴做的小窝中抚育后代。Here we have 2 kinds of birds breeding together, side by side. Crowded? Maybe. Lively? You bet your feather it is! Black-browed albatross is one of the two residents. They are the most numerous of the albatrosses, and they can live up to 70 years old. They come and raise their young in carefully-crafted mud platforms between September and November.下图：黑眉信天翁和巢/Below: Black-browed Albatross and nest上图：一个蛋！/Above: an egg!它们照理来说可是非常吵闹的鸟儿们，可是和它们的邻居比起来，这点声音就小巫见大巫了：跳岩企鹅也住在这里。它们一蹦一跳地穿梭于岩层之间，从海滩另一面的悬崖峭壁之边一路跳上来，只为了找个岩石暴露的地方筑巢和休息。They are supposed to be noisy birds, but compared to their neighbors, they were country singers in front of heavy metal fans. Rockhopper penguins share this place with the albatrosses. They jump from pebble to pebble to climb all the way up the cliffside hills from the waters just to breed, rest, and recharge.这些企鹅还是世界上最小的企鹅，只有巴掌那么大。They are also the smallest penguin in the world, at the size of merely my palm.下图：邻里关系不友善/Below: Argue with thy neighbor整整两个小时，一行人都在草丛里面埋伏着，近距离凝视着可爱的企鹅从一块石头上艰难地跳到另外一块石头上，恨不得上去帮一把。依依不舍地回到船上，第一次尝到南极之行的甜头之后，所有人都激动不已。这次可不是做白日梦，这次可是真的在南极了！We spent a good two hours walking around, because the penguins were way too adorable hopping from one rock to another. Finally, we thanked the homesteader and his wife, and bid farewell to West Point for lunch onboard Ushuaia. Everyone was ecstatic, as it felt like our Antarctic journey had finally begun. It was for real this time, not like the thousands of times conjured up by our minds.上图：吉普车，小镇，旗杆/Above: Jeep, village, flag pole死尸岛/Carcass Island死尸岛是我们下午的目的地，上面坐落着一个小镇子，还有不少企鹅的家。来到岛上的第一眼，看到的便是遍地的鲜黄色野花，这么美丽的颜色瞬间就把我的心给化了。Carcass Island was home to a tiny village as well as a large colony. The first thing we saw as we hopped onto the jetty in the village was the wild flowers. Who would have known, the stunning yellow induced a feeling of love in me...下图：死尸岛/Below: Carcass Island从登陆的村子开始步行到企鹅栖息地的距离大概是一公里，但是我一点也不在意。看看这么多美丽的花，软绵绵的绵羊，还有碧蓝的海水！一只极地大鹅和她的一群毛茸茸的小鹅，一起在草地上嬉戏，整理羽毛，以及觅食，这可不是很好嘛。The village where we landed was quite a distance away from the colony. And it is not like this is a bad place to take a hike, just look at all these fields of flowers, the fluffy sheep, and the turquoise waters! And also, look at this! A Ruddy-headed Goose was feeding in the fields, organizing her plumage, as well as leading her newly hatched goslings.我快步前行，金图企鹅们可是在等待着呢。它们鲜红色的喙，西装笔挺的外装，我怎么可能不喜欢呢？I quickly sprinted into the vicinity of the colony. Their tiny red beaks, the waddling, and the tuxedo, I can hyperventilate all day every day.下图：金图企鹅/Below: Gentoo Penguins这些小家伙们可是亮点多多，它们的经典白色“头盔”是不可能错过的显著特征，而它们的尾巴也是非常突出，和其他种类的企鹅几乎没有尾巴的特征大相径庭。These guys are one of a kind. Their signature white “bonnet” is unmistakable, and their tails are highly pronounced, unlike any other type of penguins.它们的灵活度很高，对很多东西都不挑剔，所以在世界气候大变的格局下，是为数不多的赢家。其他的企鹅都在快速的消失，只有金图企鹅还在慢慢增加地盘。Highly adaptable, these cuties are the winners of climate change, as their territories are expanding consistently while all others' shrink.下图：企鹅栖息地/Below: habitat of the penguins上图：夫妻合力/Above: don't look for a wife, look for a partner由于它们比较高效能，金图企鹅不太怎么需要很多的脂肪以供保暖，所以比其他种类的企鹅看起来要更加瘦长一点，而且它们还是 水里 面游泳速度最快的企鹅。Gentoo penguins are much slimmer than the others because they are more efficient in energy, and thus need less fat in their bodies for insulation. They also are the fastest swimmers among these tuxedo-wearing birds because of the same reason.上图：黑蛎鹬/Above: Blackish oystercatcher下图：黑抖尾地雀/Below: Blackish cinclodes这里还有很多其他的鸟，例如黑蛎鹬和黑抖尾地雀。这就是我选择这条线路的一个主要原因，亚极地的小岛上可以看到多种多样的生态环境和动物分布，不会一直看企鹅看到审美疲劳。A lot of other birds also joined the commotion. I spotted a blackish oystercatcher and a blackish cinclodes amongst the hectic penguins crossing around the colony. This is the reason I chose this specific journey, because it takes you to subantarctic islands like this with a completely different set of birds besides penguins.上图：赶路中/Above: in a hurry回去的路上，我看到了全程唯一一只麦哲伦企鹅。它们主要分布于南美大陆本土，所以很少会来福克兰群岛，更不要说更远的南极了。当然，看麦哲伦企鹅最好的办法还是从乌斯怀亚市坐船，不出一个小时就可以在市外的小岛上面看的到数万只的栖息地。On the way back, I spotted the only two Magellanic penguins we would ever see in the entire journey. They are mostly residents of mainland South America, and only a handful of them breed in the Falklands, so they are rather rare during this journey. However, the best way of seeing them is in Ushuaia, and you can see hundreds of thousands of them on offshore islands near the city.上图：麦哲伦企鹅/Above: Magellanic penguin所以你也可能发现了，很多企鹅喜欢躺在一圈又一圈肥肉搭成的肚子上休息，这对它们来说也是最舒服的。As you can see, a lot of penguins lie on their bellies to rest. Just like me, this is the least energy-consuming position, and it seems that we all agree that this is also the most comfortable.回到了村子时，本地村民邀请了各位进入他们家来享受一顿英式下午茶。我一口气囫囵吞下数百个茶点，还有不知道多少片栗子蛋糕，直到吃得双脚动不了之后才被两位壮汉用担架抬回zodiac皮艇。We returned back to the village only to be invited into a local's house for a delicious English-style afternoon tea. Needless to say, I devoured hundreds of scones, and even more chestnut cakes, before I was carried off in a stretcher to the zodiac.下图：别管我了，你们去吧，我就在这待下来了/Below: don't mind me, I am staying here斯坦利/Stanley第四天，10月27日多云，19节南风，六摄氏度51°7'S 58°53'WDay 4, October 27thcloudy, 19 knots south wind, 6°C我们一大早就在斯坦利的大港口靠岸了。一位政府官员登上了船并通过广播欢迎我们来到福克兰群岛，并在护照上盖了入境章。We docked in the long harbor of Stanley early in the morning. A government official came onboard to offer us her welcome, and proceeded to stamp our passports.下图：远眺斯坦利/Below: looking onto Stanley整个镇子上的所有店家在我们到达的时候已经全部开门营业了，这是因为每艘船到达的日子都像是过年一样，本地的报纸早早地就把接下来一年每艘船会抵达斯坦利的时间都公布好了。这样餐馆，纪念品店，酒吧，邮局，还有唯一的那个游客服务中心，都会准备充足。这个地方与外界的联系就是一周一次前往曼切斯特的航班，耗时14小时。所以，对于这里的居民来说，听说到有将近一百个外人要来拜访，都是欢喜不已。The entire town was open by the time we reached here because every ship's arrival is a huge event for the locals. I saw a newspaper with a clear schedule of ships coming with tourists for the entire coming year. It is somehow surreal to know that every single souvenir shop, the only government tourist bureau, the post office, the bar, and the few restaurants were open just for my arrival! Just think about this, the only connection to the outside world, is a 14 hour plane ride once a week to Manchester. That is why everyone in town was excited to prepare for about 100 new people coming to town.下图：斯坦利市中心/Below: Stanley center地理达人都知道，这个群岛如今是有阿根廷和英国两个国家宣誓主权的。想要知道为什么会有这个现状，就要从最开始说起。第一次真正有据可考发现福克兰的是一位荷兰人，但是他草草在1600年为荷兰宣示了所有权之后就走了。Nowadays, this island is still disputed between Argentina from old Spanish claims and British who control the islands. And that brings us to the very first chapter of this island's turbulent past. Year 1600 was the first accredited sighting of the island was by a Dutch bloke. However, he claimed the land for the Dutch and promptly moved on.下图：皇家邮局/Below: Royal post office第一次定居在岛上的而是法国人。他们在1764年岛上建了路易斯港，1766年，法国由于领地太多没精力全部管理，把这个岛授给了西班牙。同年，英国人来到了另外一边建了埃蒙特港 ，没意识到法国已经在上面有人了。发现之后，这对冤家几乎要打起仗来，但一纸和平协议避免了战火。The first settlement on the island, was by the French in 1764 in Port Luis. In 1766, French transferred this town to Spanish authority because their territories were getting too many and too difficult to manage, meanwhile the British settled in and founded Port Egmont on the other side of the islands. A war almost broke out when the pair of mortal enemies found out, and a treaty prolonged the peaceful coexistence until 1774.上图：铁娘子撒切尔的塑像/Above: Iron Maiden Thatcher's bust1774年，美国独立战争爆发，英国人为了调配兵力去应付那群美国佬，从福克兰群岛撤了出去，心想着不出多久他们就可以镇压这场暴动，那就可以安安心心回到这里继续养羊了。当然，我们都知道，英国人失败，不得不接受美国独立的事实。At that time, the Brits decided to retreat, and left the islands to focus on a war that was taking place a bit further north. You see, at that time, a bunch of slave owners were busy dumping tea off the harbor in Boston, and the British thought if they focused their forces a little, this issue would totally be over in a jiffy. Sadly, they were sorely mistaken西班牙现在是唯一的居住人了，但他们也在1811年拿破仑战争的时候撤走了，让这个岛出现了前所未有的真空局面。与此同时，没多远的阿根廷在1816年宣布独立，英国于1825年正式承认阿根廷的合法性。Spanish now had the only governmental body on the islands, and they withdrew as well in 1811 due to Napoleonic Wars, leaving a power vaccum in this island. Meanwhile, Argentina declared independence 5 years later, and its existence was recognized by the Brits in 1825.上图：炸鱼和薯条/Above: Fish and chips第二年，阿根廷立刻就派遣了一名德国人去重新定居福克兰群岛，只不过他们把它叫做马尔维纳斯群岛。1828年，Vernet几次尝试之后终于成功了，在以前的路易斯港重新设立了一个镇子，宣告了阿根廷在这个岛上的存在。The very next year Argentina commissioned a German called Vernet to set up a colony in the islands they now called Malvinas. They finally managed to do that in 1828, and successfully established a new town on top of the old French Port Luis.下图：大教堂内部/Below: Cathedral's interior但是你也知道，这个世界上是没有一个问题不需要某一个国家插手的。1831年，美国人大摇大摆的出现了。依仗一个打鱼纠纷的理由，他们派遣了列星敦号军舰把几乎所有人都赶了出去，宣称“本岛不需要政府”。However, you know who else has gotta join the party. Not too long after the founding, a dispute erupted over fishing in 1831, with nobody other than the Americans. Quickly, the US sent USS Lexington, evacuated almost everyone on the island, and declared the island “free from government”.下图：斯坦利著名的鲸鱼骨大教堂，世界上最南端的大教堂/Below: Whale bone cathedral, world's southernmost cathedral两年后，英国又杀了个回马枪，从那以后，他们就没离开过。1845年新的首都设为 斯坦利 ，然后很多年过去了，什么事都没发生，一切就只是平平淡淡的过日子而已。岛上的人，还有一代又一代的羊，就这样慢慢的过了一辈子，又一辈子。2 years later, Britain is back, and they have not left ever since. New capital Stanley was set in 1845, and not too much happened for a long time. The people, as well as the sheep, grazed on as if nothing was happening, while the rest of the world went bananas.下图：“莫慌，福克兰群岛是英国的”尽管阿根廷在美国把所有人都踢出去之后没有放弃主权，但是那时候烦事缠身的这个南美国家没有时间管这事。直到1950年代，联合国主张去“去殖民化”，英国开始秘密的和阿根廷交涉，希望可以把岛让给阿根廷来管理。但是万万没想到，这个事被岛民知道了，他们可一点都不开心，因为绝大部分都是当年从苏格兰过来的牧羊人的后代，和阿根廷一点关系都没有。1977年，铁娘子撒切尔又一次想要把岛让出去，但是还是失败了。局势压力越来越大，每一方人都不爽，英国政府不想花钱管这个只有羊的岛，阿根廷弄不好就没面子，本地居民感觉变成了双方谈判的筹码。终于，1982年，整个纸牌屋轰隆隆一泻而下，福克兰战争爆发，但是却不是因为这个国际上的原因。Even though technically the Argentina never gave up control to the island after the Americans came and kicked everyone out, the nation was too preoccupied by all other things rather than this little island. The dispute was revived, or maybe, reinvented, in 1950s and 60s, especially after UN passed to “decolonize” territories. British secretly negotiated for a transfer of authroity since they wanna drop it like it's hot, but the locals were furious after they discovered it, since most of them were descended from Scottish immigrants. In 1977, Thatcher government wanted to transfer it again, to no avail. The tension kept building, between the Argentinean government and UK, as well as the London headquarters and Stanley residents who felt they could be betrayed any time soon. Finally, in 1982, the string snapped, a war broke out, yet it was for another reason altogether.下图：“滚吧，阿根廷”和“草泥马阿根廷”阿根廷从1976年兵变之后，已经经历过了好几次重大经济衰退，而新的国家首领阿那亚上校觉得国家需要一针稳定剂：收复福克兰群岛，应该可以稳定民心了吧。他觉得英国本来就不想要这个岛，两次都想主动交给阿根廷，所以他们肯定想要弄走这个热山芋，武力占领反而还是帮英国佬的忙呢。1982年4月2日，他一举占领斯坦利，然后第二天收复南乔治亚。宣告胜利之后，阿那亚觉得这个武力展示的不错。但是与此同时，撒切尔可是板着脸。四十小时后，一支两栖精英部队组建完毕，立刻起航，到达之后一下子把阿根廷防守部队打的落花流水。74天的战争结束之后，阿根廷由于资源耗尽，设备完全跟不上，被迫投降。Argentina had been suffering from severe economic recessions for years since the military junta takeover in 1976, and the new admiral Jorge Anaya thought reclaiming the Malvinas would serve as a patriotic distraction, and he believed UK had no patience to engage in a war. Because they had approached Argentina twice for a handover, so they must be eager to get rid of it, right? He occupied Stanley on April 2nd, and South Georgia the next day. Upon declaring victory, General Anaya thought it was a good enough show, and was getting ready to take a break. Yet, on the other side of the hemisphere, 40 hours later, a naval amphibious assault force was assembled by London, and Prime Minister Thatcher quickly proceeded to hand Argentine's bottoms into their hands. By the end of the 74-day war, Argentines had to surrender due to poor preparation and inferior war machines.上图：总督府/Above: Governor's house大概650名阿根廷士兵和250名英国士兵在这次战争中丧命，几十艘战船和潜水艇被击沉，直到今天全岛到处都埋藏着地雷，本地的环境也受到了极大的打击。在联合国，这个问题还是一大纠纷；你在斯坦利到处都看得到本地人张贴的大字报；我遇到的每一个阿根廷人一听到福克兰这个词都会大声的反驳，告诉我这个岛真正的名字是马尔维纳斯。About 650 Argentines and 250 Brits lost their lives in the war, and a few dozen ships and submarines were sunk. Minefields lined the shores, and a significant damage to the local environment was done. The aftermath can still be felt today, as the dispute is still ongoing in UN. You can see large banners posted by the locals everywhere, and every Argentinean I met would state their stance with patriotism the moment I mention the word “Falklands”, and then proceeded to correct me with the correct pronounciation of “Malvinas”.上图：福克兰陆战过程/Above: Falklands' land warfare【直线：行军，虚线：直升机载送，点线：船运，蓝色防线：阿根廷部队，红色与灰色是英军降落伞兵】我们在斯坦利玩了一大圈，在游客中心买了一些纪念品之后，来到了爱尔兰式酒吧里面喝了一杯，吃了点炸鱼和薯条，经典英国菜。奇怪的是，尽管酒吧尽力做好了准备，我们只有些许人吃到了炸鱼和薯条，仔细一问才知道，原来我们到的那一天是礼拜一。我说了一句礼拜一和炸鱼有啥关系，本地人满脸懵懵的回怂一句：“谁礼拜天去钓鱼啊？”We had a blast in Stanley. After some souvenir shopping in the tourist information center, we entered an Irish pub to enjoy some British accent as well as some good beer. The fish n' chips we had in the bar was brilliant, despite very few of us got to have it. It was because it was a Monday. If you ask a local why they don't serve fish on a Monday, they would look at you like you have two heads:“Who the f### goes fishing on Sunday?”上图：新朋友/Above: new friends我们乘了摆渡车回到了乌斯怀亚号上，正好赶上起锚离开。大家站在甲板上和友好的本地人们挥手再见，正式向福克兰道了个别。之后就是极度漫长的航行，前往下一个更加偏远的岛屿：南乔治亚岛。We took the bus back to the ship, just in time to get on board before we departed. We waved the lovely locals goodbye, and before we knew it, the islands disappeared from our sight underneath the horizon. This marked the end of our voyage to the Falklands/Malvinas, and our little ride proceeded on the long, long journey further east to an even more remote island, South Georgia.公海航行/Open Sea“我们所目睹的，是上帝的无限辉煌；我们所听闻的，是自然的宏伟篇章。我们已经抵达毫无修饰的人类灵魂之源。” --- 不朽的南极先驱：埃内斯特·沙克尔顿爵士“We had seen God in His splendors, heard the text that Nature renders. We had reached the naked soul of man.” --- Sir Ernest Shackleton第五天，10月28日阴天、小雪，24节西北风，六摄氏度Day 5, October 28thOvercast/snowy, 24 knots northwest wind, 6°C很多人问过我：你最喜欢的地方是哪里。毫不含糊地说，我是永远不可能回答的。对于一个游客来说，可能景点和目的地是最重要的部分；可是对于我这环球独行侠来说，什么路，怎么走，和谁走，这才是重点。我印象最深刻的路，就是前往南乔治亚的那几天航行。一望无际的海水，波涛汹涌的南极海，左右猛烈摇晃的甲板，这是晕船人士的可怕梦魇，可是对于一位远航者来说，这正是在路上的感觉。不论大浪再怎么拍打着乌斯怀亚号的钢板，不论桌面上的瓶罐再怎么摔滚，灵魂之中那漂泊者之心，反而更加坚定不摇。这，才是我最喜欢的地方：不是哪个景点，而是在两地之间的路上。Many like to ask me the question: where is your favorite place.Unequivocally, I will never have a response for this question.For a tourist, the scenic point and the destination are what matters. However, for a traveller, what road you take, how do you take it, and who are you taking it with, these are the emphasis of a journey.My most impressive road is the few days en route to South Georgia. Boundless sea water, fierce waves of Southern Ocean, vehement swings of the decks, all seemed to be perfect nightmare fuels for a seasicked individual, yet for a voyager, this is exactly what it feels like to be on the road. No matter how hard the waves slap the steel beams of MV Ushuaia, no matter how many times the bottles roll over the table, the heart of a vagabond remains in the very soul, rather getting reinforced with every pendulum swing. This, is my favorite place: the road between two places.下图：猛烈的倾斜/Below: vehement swings第六天，10月29日冰雹、多云，19节西南风，二摄氏度Day 6, October 29thHail/cloudy, 19 knots southwest wind, 2°C今天是大扫除的日子。这可不是大家一时兴起而决定的，而是南乔治亚政府的严格规定。由于当地生态环境的脆弱，这个动物乐园非常容易受到外来物种的毁灭性打击。我们上一次停靠的是福克兰群岛，那上面的外来物种是非常容易存活下来的，所以每个人的鞋子都要擦洗到一粒尘土都不沾，每件衣服都要重新洗好，烘干，就连口袋里面都要用吸尘器吸过，因为一粒种子就可能会导致物种的灭绝。每个人都小心翼翼，不敢大意，全天整船都忙的热火朝天。Today is cleaning day. However, this is not a sudden decision made by some folks with cabin fever, but a strict regulation stipulated by South Georgia government. The island has very fragile ecosystems, and they are very susceptible to devastating invasions of foreign species. Our last stop, Falkland Islands, possess a lot of species viable in South Georgia, so every person had to purge their equipments of organic materials. Every shoe had to be rid of any dust particle, and every piece of clothing had to be washed and dried, even vaccumed in the pockets, because just one seed may cause the extinction of a species. Everyone was treading on thin ice, with the whole ship racausly busy the entire day.下图：大扫除/Below: cleaning day南乔治亚岛/South Georgia Island第七天，10月30日阴天、吹雪，五节南风，负四到正四摄氏度65°6'S, 64°21'WDay 7, October 30thovercast/blowing snow, 5 knots south wind, -4°C~4°C他人湾/Elsehul几日大海上的颠簸之后，乌斯怀亚号终于抵达了南乔治亚的西段，缓缓地在Elsehul他人湾上沉下了锚。这个名字来源于挪威语，实名“其他人的海湾”，原因在于他们听说有人在他们之前已经对这里命名了。Upon arrival at the western extremes of South Georgia, Ushuaia anchored into position at Elsehul after days of navigation. The name Elsehul comes from Norwegian's “else's bay” since they were the ones to rediscover it.象海豹完全占领了这个窄小的黑沙滩，给其他的动物几乎没留下任何空间。南极海狗，各种企鹅，无数海鸟，以及最突兀的动物，我们人类，都被挤成了一团。Elephant seals completely took over this little patch of sand, leaving little space for the fur seals, penguins, other seabirds, and of course, the most jarring animals here, us humans.前来欢迎我们的便是最好奇的南极海狗了。大名实为南极毛皮海豹，他们和陆地上的狗其实没什么差别，一对小耳朵，毛绒绒的一身皮，健壮的四肢使得他们跑的特别快，还可以帮他们挠痒痒，就连叫声都是汪汪的呢！The welcoming ones are definitely the curious Antarctic fur seals. They are practically dogs with their small ears, fluffy fur, strong limbs that enable fast run on land, and scratching itches. They can even bark!一群海狗懒洋洋地躺在沙滩上，横七竖八的打着瞌睡，晒着上午的太阳。还有一只直接用之前捕鲸人留下来蒸馏海豹脂肪的大铁盆当做自己的枕头，睡的正香。A bunch of them lazily spreaded out on the beach, snoozing away the morning sun. One even used a few old pots leftover by the whalers used to distill seal fat as pillows.但是这里的主角还是象海豹。它们四肢已经退化，没有外耳，而且皮肤光滑，属于“真海豹”，而且也是世界上最大的掠食性动物，足足比第二名的北极熊大了7倍。雄性象海豹一般可以长到雌性的四倍重，达到四顿左右！Of course, the main player here are the elephant seals. They have no bony limbs, nor external ears, and have smooth skins, so they are the so-called “true seals”. They are actually the biggest carnivore alive today, weighing a whopping 7 times more than a polar bear. The males generally double their female counterparts in size and 4 times heavier in weight. The biggest males usually weigh around 4000kg/16500 pounds!它们实行一夫多妻制，一头强势的雄性可以有二十来位雌性，每当其他单身的雄性前来偷腥被发现之时，就会发生惨烈的打斗，有时候双方不顾死活，一阵仰头撕打之后常常会遍地猩红，压死无数雌性和刚出生的小海豹。They practice a harem system, with an alpha courting more than two dozen females. Whenever a solitary male tries to sneak in with a female, the alpha would fight fiercely with the straggler, usually result in a bloodbath, squashing numerous females and newborns in its wake.象海豹的孕期是一年，所以今年看到的所有新生的可爱小海豹都是去年爱的结晶。母亲的奶水几乎一大半都是脂肪，所以小海豹出生之后体重就会疾速飙升，一天可以长至少20斤！Elephant seal has gestation of one year, so this year's cute pups are all products from last year. Mother's milk is mostly comprised of fat, so these little seals gain weight extremely rapidly upon birth, with a minimum of 10kg a day!上图：正在喂奶/Above: drinking milk这也是我第一次亲眼看到国王企鹅，最显眼的黄色脖子在船上的时候就依稀可见。这是第二大的企鹅种类，可以长到一米高，仅仅次于南极大陆的帝王企鹅。This is also my first time seeing king penguins with my own eyes, easily distinguishable even from the ship with their yellow neck patches.They are the second largest type of penguins, with heights up to 1 meter tall, second only to emperor penguins.但是他人湾没有繁殖地，所以我们只看到十来只在这里稍作休息的国王企鹅，其中还夹杂着一两只迷路的金图企鹅。Since Elsehul has no colony, we only saw about a dozen king penguins resting here as a pit stop, mixed in with two confused gentoo.我们顺便一路登上了海滩边的小山坡，借机俯瞰整个海湾，以及另一边也完全被象海豹占领的海峡。We also climbed up a little hill next to the beach, which afforded a panorama over it, as well as over another strait on the other side, which was occupied by elephant seals completely as well.在山头上可以看得到一个蓝眼鸬鹚的产卵地（上图），以及非常特别的雪鞘嘴鸥（下图）。这种白色杂食性鸟类只分布在南极，而且也是 全南 极区域唯一不是海鸟的鸟类，如果你仔细看，你会发现它们的脚都没有蹼，所以它们不会游泳，专门食腐。On top of the hill is a colony of blue-eyed cormorant (above), and the snowy sheathbill(below). This white omnivore is endemic to Antarctica, and is the only bird in the area that is not a seabird. If you look closely, you will find out they have no webbed feet, so they are unable to swim.回船的路上，我们的橡皮艇撞见了一群企鹅。它们打鱼完毕，正在回岸上的途中。擦肩而过的那一秒，它们如事先彩排过一样，同一刹那从水中一跃而出，溅起一片片水花，欢送着我们离开。这才是南极最美的瞬间！On the way back to ship, we ran into a group of penguins returning from a hunt. As we crossed paths, they leaped out of the water at the exact same moment, splashing down with a field of ripples, as if they were bidding us farewell. Now this is the most beautiful moment of Antarctica!露脊鲸湾/Right Whale Bay下午的登陆点是Right Whale Bay露脊鲸湾,据说当年探险家发现这个地方的时候，整个海湾全部都是露脊鲸，多到航行都有困难。The afternoon landing site is Right Whale Bay, because when the explorers found this bay, it was riddled with right whales, so much so that it made sailing difficult.如今，捕鲸已经几乎灭绝了这些温和的巨人们，它们的数量早已减少到了原本的千分之一，所以我们在这里再也看不到鲸鱼了。Nowadays, whaling has reduced the number of these gentle giants to less than one-thousandth of its previous state, so we would never see whales here again any more.下图：在咆哮的大风之中行进/Below: marching in howling wind这个大海湾现在是帝王企鹅的天下，从我们的海边登陆点到他们的栖息地足足有一公里的路，但是恶劣的天气让我们寸步难行。This bay is the kingdom of king penguins now, yet the distance between our landing point and the colony was more than a kilometer, and the inclement weather prohibited us from advancing.上图：低能见度，一坨一坨的是海豹/Above: low visibility, the dark piles are seals上图：被冻死的小海狮骸骨/Above: skeleton of a seal frozen to death在这种极寒地带，罪魁祸首必定是重力风。山上靠近地面的空气被冰封的雪吸走热量，变成更重的冷空气，开始往下跑，然后遇到更多寒冷的积雪，然后变得更冷更重，所以越跑越快，最终成为了这个时速快一百公里的重力风。In Antarctic lands like this, the cause is definitely katabatic winds. When air in the hills gets its heat taken away by the frozen ground, it gains density as it becomes colder, and begins to sink downslope. And then it meets new land that is also cold, and becomes even colder, and thus heavier, so it sinks faster. This continues until we were hit with katabatic winds blowing over 100km/h.卷起来的积雪导致能见度很差，所有人早已经在白茫茫的一片之中迷路了，但是运气好的是，一同登陆的企鹅们知道回家的路，我们只要跟着他们的企鹅高速公路就可以找到它们的家啦！It blows up snow, making visibility non-existent, yet we had helpers. The penguins which landed with us also had to get home, so we simply needed to follow their penguin highway!企鹅实在是可爱，不但看起来傻萌，而且走路都是一根筋。如果你站到它们的企鹅高速公路上面，它们就不敢动了。它们只知道这一条路，也不会绕着你走。Penguins are just too adorable, and not only do they look goofy, but they also walk in a silly fashion. If you step onto their penguin highway,then they will just freeze. They only know this exact road, and cannot walk around you.所以当我不小心站到他们的行进路线上时，我回头一看，发现一百多双小眼睛吧噔吧噔地盯着我看，完全不知所措。还有一些堵车，诶不对，堵鹅，堵得不耐烦了，干脆就地躺下来休息。As a result, when I accidentally stood on top of their highway, I turned back and found hundreds of tiny eyes staring at me with extreme confusion. Some of them who got tired of this penguin-jam even lied down and began napping.在白色的吹雪之中漫步多时，一行人和一行鹅终于来到了聚居地。而且天公作美，决定给我们的视线放行。After a long walk in the blowing snow, the group of mixed human and penguins finally made it to the colony. Luckily, the weather cleared up.风停了，雪也不飘了，很快能见度大大提升，一瞬间数万只企鹅映入眼帘。The wind halted, so the snow calmed down, and the visibility improved dramatically. As if all in a sudden, thousands of penguins popped into view.刚出生的小型企鹅五个月内就可以成熟下水，在南极寒冷的冬天到来之前逃离陆地。但是国王企鹅是大型企鹅，小企鹅需要一年才可以成熟，所以它们长了专为抵御零下四十度南极之冬的深棕色皮毛，看起来就像是一颗颗大大的猕猴桃。Unlike other smaller penguins species whose chicks can fledge within five months and escape land before the harsh Antarctic winter sets in, king penguins are different. Their chicks require one year to mature, and that means the parents have to walk all this way to deliver food even during the dead of winter. The chicks themselves grow a thick layer of brown, thick, non-waterproof fur, which make them look like large fluffy kiwi fruits.一旦孩子第二年蜕完毛可以独立下海了，两位父母都会到南极最偏远的海域去休整度假，来年再造人。After the chicks fully fledge and can go into the waters in the second year, their parents would take a vacation in remotest waters in Antarctica in order to relax and prepare for next year's breeding season.上图：在大浪中靠近乌斯怀亚号/Above: approaching Ushuaia in large swells回到船上，所有人都在晚餐桌上欢呼雀跃，南乔治亚首日完全突破了我们最高的期待。激动庆祝之后，所有人在安静的甲板下睡着了，完全没有意识到，这仅仅是一个开始。Back on the boat, everyone was cheering on the dinner table. The first day of South Georgia completely blew our expectations out of the water. After the celebration, everyone fell asleep underneath the tranquil decks, completely unaware that this is just a beginning...索尔斯堡平原/Salisbury Plain第八天，10月31日晴天，八节南风，三摄氏度54°03'S, 37°19'WDay 8, October 31stSunny, 8 knots south wind, 3°C一大早起来，我看到窗外的阳光，箭步冲上了观察台，立马就被眼前的景象震慑到了。这一天，从那一刻起，就注定了是不平凡的。我们正对着的，就是世界上最大的企鹅栖息地之一，索尔斯堡平原。Next morning, I saw the sunshine outside, and immediately teleported to the observation deck. I was instantly stunned by what I saw. Today, was destined to be extraordinary. What I was facing was one of the largest colonies of penguins on Earth, Salisbury Plain.远远的企鹅叫声依稀可辨，而皑皑雪山则是一道清晰的天际线。我囫囵吞下早餐，飞速跳上第一艘摆渡船，踏上了这道地球边缘深邃的蓝......The distant trumpeting was barely audible, yet the snow-capped mountains were the clearest skyline. I gobbled down the breakfast, hopped onto the zodiac, and became the first to land onto this distant smudge of azure sky on the planet...下图：雪鞘嘴鸥在观察台上休息/Below: Snowy sheathbills resting on the obervation deck上图：离天堂，就只有几米了/Above: a few meters to paradise眼见之处，全是企鹅。在这里，将近五十万只企鹅在整个平原上铺了开来。Everything the light touches, is filled with penguins.Nearly half a million penguins spreaded themselves out on the plain.上图：繁忙的海滩/Above: busy beach上图：刚上岸的企鹅/Above: penguins that have just landed下图：车水马龙/Below: hectic scene沙滩上，海水中，小溪边，草地间，山头后，冰川前，雪地里，相机里面没有一个像素是不包含这群鸟儿的。On the beach, in the waters, next to the stream, in front of the glacier, buried in the snow, not one single pixel captured by the camera does not contain a penguin.在这里，企鹅是主人，而我们，只不过是匆匆过客罢了。Here, they are the masters, and we humans are barely passers-by.上图：山上密密麻麻都是企鹅/Above: every dot on the mountain is a penguin下图：鹤立鸡群，人立鹅群/A giant among the penguins在这里，我们南极人有这么一句老话：世上只有两种企鹅，一种是朝着你的白色企鹅，另一种是背对着你的黑色企鹅。在这白茫茫黑压压的一大片企鹅之中，我貌似也成为了这一个群体之中微不足道的一员。In Antarctica, we have a saying: there are only two types of penguins in the world, one is white penguin that is facing you, and the other is black penguin that is facing against you. In this chaotic commotion of penguins, I seem to have blended in, and become an indistinguishable member of this crowd.四处还散布着很多正在换毛的企鹅。为了保证防水性，企鹅每年都需要把旧的毛褪下再换上新的羽毛，这期间不但非常痒，非常难受，而且还不能下水捕食。Besides some penguins walking around, there were also a lot of moulting penguins scattered around the place. To ensure their feathers are waterproof, every year, penguins have to shed their old feathers and grow a new body full, not only is this incredibly itchy and uncomfortable, they are confined to land during meantime.所以换毛的企鹅都喜欢聚集在清凉的小溪边，呆呆地凝视着水平面，看起来一脸的不爽。So many moulting penguins were just standing next to the streams where it was cooler, and stared into the distance with begrudging complexions.下图：正在换毛的企鹅/Below: a moulting penguin一旦新的一身羽毛换好，所有企鹅就开始恋爱季节了。在一阵快速的舞蹈之后，一对雌雄企鹅会交配并产下一个鸡蛋大小的蛋。Once the new feathers are ready, the penguins begin breeding season. After a quick succession of dances, a pair would lay one egg about the size of chicken's.上图：挠痒痒/Above: scratching an itch孵化后，父母会每星期轮换，一个照顾孩子，另一个去海里觅食，直至一个多月后小企鹅全身棕色的猕猴桃毛张全。Upon hatching, the parents will do weekly shifts, one guards the chick and the other goes in the sea to look for food, until the chick is big enough after one month.这时候小企鹅的需求量倍增，所以父母需要把孩子全部放在栖息地中心由数位大企鹅看管的“托儿所”里，然后双双出门猎食。At this time, the little one's need increases dramatically, so the parents will deposit the chick into colony's central “kindergarten” so they can both go out and hunt.下图：鹅满为患的托儿所/Below: crowded kindergarten神奇的是，在数以百万计的企鹅群里面，父母和孩子都可以辨别出对方的叫声。数公里宽的栖息地中，同时至少有数万只企鹅在呼叫着父母或是孩子，但是每个家庭成员总是能够找到其他的成员。Miraculously, all parents and children could tell each other's calls apart from millions of other penguins. In the colony kilometers wide, there were at least thousands calling for their loved ones simultaneously, yet every family member could be reunited without a problem.上图：出海归来的父母/Above: parents back from fishing我们到达的时间正是小企鹅基本成熟的时候，所以它们已经和父母在体型上相差无几了。When we arrived, it was time when most chicks were reaching maturity, so their body size was almost the same as their parents'.下图：茫茫鹅海，谁是我的孩子呢？/Below: All these penguins, who is my child?下图：褪毛的企鹅只好当起了托儿所门卫/Below: moulting penguins as kindergarten guards上图：终于找到了自己的孩子/Above: finally found my kid当然，这么大一片地，肯定还有很多其他借光留宿的其他鸟类。南乔治亚特有的南乔治亚鹡鸰（下图）是全世界最靠南的鸣鸟，给这嘈杂不堪的平原带来了一点委婉动听的歌唱。Of course, with such a large landmass, there has to be many other types of birds trying to stay as well. South Georgia's endemic South Georgia pipit (below) is the southernmost song bird in the world, and brought a few cohesive tunes in the chaotic plains.而南乔治亚长尾鸭（下图）也一摇一摆的在一边走过，完全不想和企鹅们搭上关系。这两种鸟都得益于最近消灭老鼠的政策，从濒临灭绝的边缘上死里逃生。While a group of South Georgia pintails(below) waddled by, completely unphased by the tuxedo commotion.Both were saved from the brink of extinction thanks to the rat eradication projects.如果还嫌这里不够挤的话，那躺的横七竖八的南极海狗和象海豹足够可以算是把这里挤爆了。它们丝毫不在乎将近一百分贝的企鹅们互相呼叫着自己的家人，在整个栖息地中找到好的石头便呼呼大睡起来，时不时仰起头来打个哈欠，或者好奇的探望一圈，和我们说一声好。And if that is not crowded enough for you, then the sea lions and seals lying about have to satisfy your desire for congestion. They do not bat even an eye to the penguins calling each other with nearly a hundred decibels of trumpeting, and snoozed away on rocks and beaches. From time to time, one would raise its head to yawn, or look around curiously to bid us good afternoon.毋庸置疑，在这个地球上，没有任何一个地方会像这里一样振奋人心。我站在平原上，完全被企鹅包围着。Needless to say, there is not one place as exhilerating as here on the planet. I stood on the plain, completely surrounded by penguins.身边，一只小海豹正在匍匐靠近，想要闻闻我的靴子。天边，皑皑雪山被看似是液体的浓雾笼罩着，而近处，地面上的冷空气产生了一层淡薄的青烟，如棉毯一般盖上了打呼的海狮。在这一刻，我和自然成为了一体，被地球母亲升华了灵魂。Just beside me, a baby seal was inching closer, trying to take a whiff of my boots. At the horizon, semi-liquid-like clouds were shrouding the snow-capped mountains, while closer by, the frigid soil condensed air around it, forming a thin blanket of fog. At this moment, I had become one with nature, and it had transcended my soul.不知道多小时之后，决心留在这里过一辈子的我被船员们拖上了摆渡船，回到了乌斯怀亚号上。After god-knows how long, I, who had determined to live the rest of my life here, was dragged onto the zodiac, and back onto Ushuaia.2016年10月31日的上午是我这辈子前无古人后无来者的一天。至今，我还是依依难舍这一天给我带来的心跳和欣喜。索尔斯堡平原，谢谢你，我将缅怀你给我所带来的一切。December 31st, 2016, will forever be a day that is both unprecedented and unreplicable. Until now, I am still nostalgic of the happiness that day brought into my life. Thank you, Salisbury Plain, and I will remember every facet of you.下图：出海的企鹅/Below: penguins setting out普里昂岛/Prion Island可是你看到的才是一个上午，下午的登陆点是Prion Island普里昂岛，一个山包大小的海湾小岛。However, what you saw was just a morning, and Prion Island, an island the size of a hill, was our afternoon landing point.上图：驾驶摆渡船的水手/Above: the sailor piloting our zodiac这里看似荒芜，除了丛生的杂草以外一无所有，却是世界上所剩无几的漂泊信天翁繁殖地。眼前，一只小信天翁正在练习展开它的翅膀，为几个月后的首航做准备。Seemingly barren, with nothing but weeds, this island is actually one of the few remaining breeding sites of wandering albatrosses. Right in front of me, a baby albatross was practicing flapping his wings, preparing for his maiden voyage in a few months.漂泊信天翁可是世界上翼展最大的鸟类，一般可以达到3.5米宽。而且他们的名字可不是吹的，很多信天翁一年可以环绕世界飞行三圈。Wandering albatrosses are actually the bird with the largest wingspan, which can reach 3.5 meters. Their names are not just for show, as a lot of them can circumnavigate the world three times a year.可以说流浪组成了它们的基因，而漂泊则是它们的生活，这也就是为什么我的灵兽就是漂泊信天翁：我们的魂魄，永远都在路上，寻找着自我。You can say they are vagabonds in their bones, and wandering is their lifestyle. That is why my spirit animal is a wandering albatross: our spirits are always on the road, looking for ourselves.上图：朝着贼鸥嘶吼的小海豹/Above: a baby seal yelling at a skua一天结束，一行人回到船上，激动地连晚餐都吃不下。饭后，全船都特别的安静，我站上漆黑的甲板，听着潮水拍打铁板，看着天边的繁星。南十字星座在天穹中缓缓地旋转着，而我的心也跟着星空，航行到了永远......The day ended with everyone back on board, all of whom too excited to even eat dinner. After the meal, the entire ship fell quiet. I stood on top of the pitch-black decks, hearing the swells hitting our steal armor, and watching the starry sky unfolding in front of me. The Southern Cross was spinning in the zenith, and my followed it, towards infinity...福图纳湾/Fortuna Bay第九天，11月1日晴天、多云，八节西南风，三摄氏度54°07'S, 36°08'WDay 9, November 1stCloudy/sunny, 8 knots southwest wind, 3°CFortuna Bay福图纳湾比之前的露脊鲸和索尔斯堡两个海湾要小很多，但是它既浅又长，所以那天恰好有个冰山搁浅在了水域里面。Fortuna Bay is much smaller than Right Whale Bay and Salisbury Plains, but it is longer and shallower. As a result, luckily, an iceberg was beached on the day of our visit.海水已经把整个冰山侵蚀出了一个洞，万年冰中透出了晶莹的淡蓝色光芒。Sea water had already eroded away a hole in the iceberg, allowing some light blue to filter through the millenia-old ice.雪山，白云，蓝冰，以及黑色的企鹅，组成了一道独一无二的风景线，完全无法被任何其他地方所复制。Snowy peaks, white clouds, blue ice, and black penguins, formed a unique combination, irreplicable in any other place in the world.一群帝王企鹅站在海边，满脸惆怅的看着波粼的水面，反射着冰川透出的蓝光，完全没发现一只无聊的海狗正在旁边追逐着一只可怜的企鹅，吓得它一边飞奔一边哇哇大叫（下图）。A group of king penguins stood by the sea, pensively looking at the undulating surface, reflecting the azure blue coming from the iceberg. They were completely unaware of a bored sea lion chasing a brethren around, terrifying it so much that screams could be heard everywhere.(Below)这里还有一只我最喜欢的乌信天翁。这是世界上最少的信天翁，它们灰头土脸的渐变色是这群濒危鸟类最显眼的特征。There is also a sooty albatross here, with their color gradient at their heads being the biggest specialty.下图：乌信天翁/Below: sooty albatross跟随着企鹅大部队，我来到了一公里开外的栖息地。这里的国王企鹅只有数千只，但是坐在草地上，看着四周和我一般高的企鹅们穿梭来回，再转头看看那个搁浅的冰山，可是再好不过的下午休憩了。I followed the penguin herd, and arrived at the colony a kilometer away. Even though there were only a few thousand king penguins, but sitting on the grass, seeing penguins at my eye level moving about, and then turn around looking at that beached iceberg, is the best afternoon siesta I could get.下图：妈妈带着宝贝离开幼儿园/Below: mom bringing baby out of the kindergarten就这样坐着，数小时眨眼之间就飞过了。我缓缓的走回摆渡点，看着远方雪山上的流云，心中只有对这个世界最美好的期望。谢谢你，大自然，给我们带来了这么一幅美妙画卷。And just like that, a few hours passed by while sitting down. I meandered back to the landing point, looking at the flowing clouds above the mountains afar, with nothing but the heartfelt appreciation for this great world. Thank you, mother nature, for bring us such an elegant creation.古利德维肯/Grytviken下午，乌斯怀亚号航行到了全岛最大的爱德华国王湾，停泊在了全岛首都Grytviken 古利德维肯 。这是全世界最小的首都，全城只有三个人，而且都是夏天特意从三公里开外的科研站（下图）调过来的。After lunch, Ushuaia reached the largest bay in the island King Edward Cove, and dropped anchor near capital Grytviken. This is the smallest capital in the world, with just 3 people, all of whom transfered here from a research station (below) 3km away just in summer.总督的妻子亲自登上船来给大家敲章，正式欢迎大家来到南乔治亚，并且给我们上了一个关于她亲自领头将老鼠从南乔治亚赶出去的讲座。（下图）The governor's wife personally boarded the ship to stamp everyone in, officially welcoming us to South Georgia. She also gave us a lecture about how she personally spearheaded the project to eradicate rats from the island. (below)上图：古利德维肯博物馆/Above: Grytviken Museum下图：古利德维肯教堂，可以在里面结婚哦！/Below: Grytviken church, you can get married there!古利德维肯是一个挪威人创立的捕鲸站，但是自从1966年关闭之后，整个城市只剩下了一座教堂和一个博物馆。但是对我来说最重要的景点，是厄内斯特·沙克尔顿之墓（下图）。Grytviken is a whaling station founded by Norwegians, but after its closure in 1966, the entire city has only a church and a museum left. However, for me, the most important sight is the grave of Ernest Shackleton. (below)上图：遍地的鲸鱼骨，和我的单反作对比/Above: scattered whale bones, my DSLR as reference他是史上最伟大的探险家之一，也是我的个人英雄。海军服役之后，他参加了先辈斯考特所组织的几次航行，积累了大量经验。1908年，他顶着暴风雪，南征到南纬88度，几乎成为第一个抵达南极点的人。1912年，阿蒙德森和斯考特先后征服了南极点，于是他放弃仅仅去南极点的想法，而是组织了人类第一次横穿南极洲的探险。想法很简单，派两艘船，一条把他和几个小伙伴放下来，另一艘在另外一边等待。（下图）He is not only the greatest leaders in history, but also my hero. He went on to start a journey to South Pole in his Nimrod expedition in 1908, but was forced to return after reaching a record-breaking 88°S. News came in 1912 that Amundsen and Scott had conquered the South Pole, so Shackleton turned to something greater: cross the Antarctic continent. The plan was simple: two ships, one to drop him off on one side, and the other to pick them up on the other. (Below)他的名字在英国已经是家喻户晓，所以当他张贴出本文最前面的征求告示时，一时轰动了全英国。1914年，一行人兴致勃勃的出发了。次年一月，船在威德尔海被浮冰冻住了，于是所有人听从沙克尔顿淡然的指示，暂时弃船，在浮冰上搭建“耐心站”营地等待来年开春。His name was already widely known in Britain, so when he posted the notice featured in the very beginning of this journal, the nation erupted. 1914, the group departed with much gusto. Yet January next year, their boat was frozen in the ice, so everyone built a camp named “Patience” on the pack ice, waiting for it to thaw out.可是十一月浮冰化开的时候，船不但没有解脱出来，反而被压碎了。沙克尔顿从容地发号施令，大家把一切物品都从船上抢救下来，在冰上等待时机。不巧的是，来年四月，浮冰破裂，所有人靠着五艘救生艇，连续划了五天五夜，来到了大象岛。（下篇游记可见）大象岛是南极最靠北的陆地，但是还是什么都没有，一群人只能靠吃企鹅度日。看着疲惫不堪，眼中毫无希望的船员们，沙克尔顿做出了一个惊人的决定。Yet when it did in November, it not only did not let go of the ship, but crushed it. Shackleton calmly ordered for all goods to be salvaged, and everyone waited longer on the ice. Sadly, in April, the ice broke apart, and the group scrambled onto 5 life rafts, rowed for 5 days straight, reaching Elephant Island. It is the northernmost land in Antarctica, but it still had nothing other than penguin meat. Looking at his dejected and exhausted crew, Shackleton made an astonishing decision.上图：挪威人捕鲸人图书馆/Above: Norwegian whalers' library下图：捕鲸人的房间/Below: Whalter's room他找到了五个志愿者，并且把剩下的三艘救生船拆出来，建造了一艘小艇。他带领着这只敢死队，连续划了15天15夜，1300公里，横跨整个南极海，来到南乔治亚。这个小艇（上图）还没有这里一般的潮涌高，而且每一波浪都灌进来大量达到冰点的海水，根本无法吃东西，更不要说睡觉了。他靠着决心，毅力，以及不朽的冒险精神，强行从死神的虎口之中夺食，把这支队伍带到了南乔治亚。He found 5 volunteers, and combined the leftover 3 rats together and made a bigger one. He led this team and rowed 15 days non-stop, for 1300km to South Georgia, across the entire Southern Ocean. This raft (above) is not even as tall as the waves here, and each wave poured in huge amounts of frozen sea water. It was impossible to eat, not to mention sleeping. With his determination and spirits, Shackleton led his man through the most daring voyage accomplished by man.但是到达之后，他们还需翻越这座岛几千米的高山，于是他们休息也不休息，靠着一根绳子和一把斧头，马不停蹄地翻山越岭52小时，来到了鼓利德维肯。在他倒下去的最后一刻，他说的话是：“快去，救救，我的船员们。”Yet upon arrival, they still needed to cross a few thousand-meter mountain ranges, and they began right away. With just a rope and an axe, they climbed 52 hours and reached Grytviken. Before collapsing, Shackleton blurted out: “Please, save my man.”他的舍命航行给他的队员带来了希望，所有人都为了他坚强的活了下去。三年之后回到英国时，全员一人都没落下。他的无私，执著，对下属们的热爱，和冲锋精神，使他获得了船员们叫他“BOSS/大哥”的称呼。最终，他选择了被葬在南乔治亚，面朝着他心向的南极。他的旁边，是许多他的船员，都选择了死后和他一起，踏上最后一次航行。如今，靠着一百年后的现代技术，还是没有任何一个人能够复制沙克尔顿当年靠着一个小木舟所创造的奇迹。我站在他的墓前，抿了一口他最爱的威士忌，敬了这位伟大的探险前辈，再把剩下的倒入他的长眠之地。这一杯，是你的，BOSS！His death march gave all his crew hope. Three years later, when they returned to Britain, not one single life was lost. His selflessness, his determination, his love for his subordinates, and his will to charge ahead, earned him the nickname of “Boss” among the crew. Eventually, he chose to be buried here in South Georgia, facing where his heart belongs: south. Many of his crew also decided to join him here after death, so they can embark on one last voyage together. Nowadays, with technologies 100 years more advance, still nobody can replicate his miracle created with merely a raft. I stood in front of his grave, took a sip of his favorite drink, whiskey, saluted him, and poured the rest onto his tomb. This drink is yours, Boss!古利德维肯现在绝大部分都是当年捕鲸站的废墟。这片破铜烂铁看似沧桑，实则上是沾满了鲜血。当年捕鲸时，最受欢迎的便是南乔治亚盛产的露脊鲸（所以英文名是Right Whale/正好的鲸鱼）。Grytviken now is mostly the ruins of the whaling stations. These rusted metals seem historic, but is actually drenched in blood. During whaling era, the most popular one is the Right While.它们温顺，脂肪含量高，喜欢靠近海面捕食，而且最重要的是，一旦死亡，它们是唯一会浮起来的鲸鱼，所以被船上的大鱼叉（上图）杀死之后，捕鲸人们会把尸体用绳子套在穿上特制的洞里面拖着走，所以下图的这艘捕鲸船一次可以拖12条鲸鱼。They are just right because they are docile, high in fat content, and love to skim the surface. Most importantly, they are the only ones that float upon death. So after killing them using the gigantic harpoon mounted at the front (above), the whalers would drag them with a string going around a hole on the sides, so the whaler ship below can drag 12 whales at a time.回到古利德维肯后，专门的拖船（上图）会用铁链把鲸鱼单独拖上岸，然后专人会用十多米长的大锯子（下图，在博物馆前面的那个）把整条鱼剁成微波炉那么大的块。整个镇子都会血流成河，所以整个20公里的海湾绝大部分日子都是猩红一片。Back to Grytviken, special tug boats (above) will drag the whales on shore individually, and then workers would use gigantic saws (below, the one in front of the museum) to chop the mammal into blocks the size of microwaves. The entire town would be bloody, and the 20-km bay would be dark red during most years of its operation.由于鲸鱼含脂肪量高，所以很滑，切肉的人在尸体上踩不稳，所以他们的鞋子都有加30厘米的钉子可以戳进外皮，但还是常常有人掉下三层楼高的鲸尸摔死。所有切好的肉都会放到几层楼高的蒸煮罐（上图）连续高温蒸馏好几天，以便把所有的油都提炼出来，而骨头则会煮的更久，把骨髓的油榨出来。Because the whale has a lot of fat, so they are very slippery. The workers cutting meat have to wear shoes with 30-cm nails in order to prevent losing foothold, yet a lot of people still fell off the 3-story-tall carcass and perished. The processed chunks are cooked in large distillation tanks (above) for days in order to extract out the fat, while the bones are cooked for even longer to extract out the rich oil in the marrow.鲸鱼油在19和20世纪重要的材料，石油出现之前，灯几乎都是鲸鱼油点的，很多车子离合器都是用鲸鱼油润滑的，所以老一辈的人都可能用过。Whale oil is an important material in 19th and 20th century. Before the advent of petroleum, lamps were almost always lit by whale oil, and many car transmissions were lubricated with it, so many elderly readers may have used it.上图：在废墟中睡觉的南极海狗/Above: Antarctic fur seal napping in the ruins尽管联合国于1986年禁止了捕鲸，但是鼓利德维肯的捕鲸站早在20年前就因为没有鲸鱼可杀而关上了大门。这个罪恶的血泪史，是我们人类需要共同承担的。Even though UN banned whaling in 1986, the whaling station here in Grytviken closed 20 years prior due to the collapse of whale population here. This bloody history is something that the entire human race has to bear.和全城的三个人道别之后，我搭乘了最后一艘摆渡船回到了乌斯怀亚号上。今天我看到了很多美景，也感受到了很多历史。没想到的是，这个看似毫无特点的首都却给我带来了最多的思考。我看着那些倒塌的破铜烂铁从天边缓缓消失，也进入了甜蜜的梦乡......After bidding farewell to the entire population of 3 in town, I took the last zodiac back to Ushuaia. I have seen many gorgeous views, and I have experienced a lot of history. What I did not expect is that this seemingly featureless capital brought me the most thoughts to brood upon. Watching those collapsed rusted towers disappearing from sight, I also slowly fell into a dark, dreamless slumber...圣安德鲁斯湾/St. Andrew's Bay第十天，11月2日雾、晴、霾，2节 东北 风，四摄氏度54°26'S, 36°11'WDay 10, November 2ndfoggy/sunny/misty, 2 knots northeast wind, 4°C大雾占据了我们在南乔治亚最后一天的登陆点，St. Andrew's Bay圣安德鲁斯湾。我们的摆渡船摇摆在伸手不见五指的白色之中，完全被迷路的企鹅们包围了。A dense fog took over our last landing site in South Georgia, St. Andrew's Bay. Our zodiac swang back and forth in the pitch-white obscurity, completely surrounded by penguins who also wanted to land but were lost.下图：我在哪？我是谁？人生的目的是啥？/Below: Where am I? Who am I? What is the point of life?天公作美，雾在我们踏上陆地之后开始快速消散，透出远方在打斗的象海豹，一条条冰雪融化出来的小溪，还有无数不知所措的国王企鹅们。Yet we were lucky, as the fog began rapidly dissipating as soon as we landed, revealing elephant seals fighting in the distance, a few streams of melted glacial water, as well as numerous lost king penguins.雾撤退些许，我们才意识到这个平原的规模是如此之大。数百万只企鹅霸占了所有地盘，而远方的栖息地黑压压一片全部都是蠢萌的小猕猴桃。一行人兴奋地开始行进，但是好几条小河挡住了去路。As the fog retreated, we finally realized the immeasurable size of this plain. Millions of penguins took over everywhere, and the colony afar was full of chubby kiwi fruits. The entire group excitedly tried to advance, yet a few rivers blocked the way.吃得苦中苦方为鹅上鹅，我领头踩着石头跨越河流。即使厚重的橡胶鞋也完全无法抵挡雪水的寒冷，我的脚很快便失去了知觉。但是不顾一切，一定要坚持住！这激流快到可以把我的裤子都冲到海里面去呢。You can't get to your goal without a bit of hardship, so I led the charge crossing the river. Standing in the freezing glacial water, even the heavy rubber boots could not hold off its sheer cold, and my feet quickly lost its sensation. Yet I persisted on, because the rapid could easily sweep my pants into the sea.过河的时候，方圆五十米内的所有企鹅都转了过来，好奇的看着。不但踩错一步就要去洗史上最冷的冷水澡，而且还要接受五十只小眼睛吧噔吧噔的注目礼，真的是鸭梨山大啊！While crossing the river, every penguin in a fifty meter radius turned around and stared curiously. Not only would taking a round step send me to the coldest shower in history, but also there were fifty tiny eyes fixated upon me, the pressure was too much to bear!下图：看什么看！/Below: What ya looking at!不知道多少年之后，我终于穿过了数条急流，来到了企鹅天堂的正中心。四周无数的企鹅打着瞌睡，完全不理睬我们这些花里胡哨的外星生物。After god-knows how long, I finally made it through the few torrents, and arrived at the heart of penguin paradise. Countless penguins were napping everywhere, completely ignoring us bunch of alien creatures.此时，向导们告诉我如果有兴趣，可以爬上附近一个小山包。若雾完全消散的话，从那可以看得到一百万只企鹅的壮美景象。二话不说，我健步如飞地往上跑，吓醒了好几只睡眼惺忪的海狗。Meanwhile, the guides told me if I was interested, I could climb on top of a small hill nearby. If the fog completely dissipates, it would afford a stunning view of a million penguins. Without hesitation, I began rushing upwards, scared awake a few snoozy fur seals.一开始，远处的栖息地还朦朦胧胧地被掩罩着，我只能听到白茫茫的山谷里面震耳欲聋的叫声，吵得像是有人在我大脑里面塞了几万只企鹅一般。不出十分钟，太阳一刹那刺破了雾霾，展现出了一个令人难以相信的奇迹。In the beginning, the colony afar was still obscured by the opaque moisture, and I could just hear the raucous commotion going on in the valley, as if someone stuffed thousands of penguins inside my head. Within 10 minutes, the sun pierced through the miasma, revealing an unbelievable miracle.四面，八方，全 部 都 是 企 鹅！从海边一直到山尖，每一个点都是一只企鹅，足足一百万之多。可是在照片里，你是肯定看不出来的。Everywhere, I mean everywhere, is filled with penguins! From the shore to the peaks, every dot is a penguin, nearly a million strong! Yet you cannot tell it in the photos, but you do not have to.但是你也不必仔细琢磨，原因就是：一百万是一个人脑无法理解的概念。我的亲眼所见，我自己都没办法消化呢！Because: a million is a concept human brains cannot comprehend. Hell, I saw it with my own eyes, and I cannot even get it over myself!两只南极贼鸥悠闲地坐在山头，看着眼皮下面一片热闹的景象，也不禁跳起了优雅的求偶之舞。这就是最纯正的大自然，以及它可以激发出的美。Two Antarctic skuas lazily sat on the peak, looking down upon the hectic scene, and began an elegant dance of courtship. This is the purest form nature, and its beauty that it sparks inside you.远处，所有正在蜕毛的企鹅们把一个小湖围了一圈，近处，好奇的小海豹仔细地打量着我们的长枪短炮，巴不得想来看看我给它照的美不美。Afar, the moulting penguins encircled a small lake; near, a curious seal carefully examined our equipments, wanting to make sure we took instagram worthy photos of his good side.我坐在这里，俯瞰着这自然的命脉，一看，就是一上午。许久之后，向导连哄带骗地说服了我回到船上去，我便依依不舍地开始往回横穿平原，向着海滩走去。没有大雾的小溪看起来更加惊心动魄，无数的企鹅也站在两 边和 我们送别。I sat here, looking at the beating rhythm of nature, for the entire morning. After a long time, the guides tricked me into returning to the ship, and I began begrudgingly cross back the plains towards the beach. The streams without the coverage of fog was even more stunning, with numerous penguins lined up on both sides bidding us farewell.乌斯怀亚号再一次扬帆起航，离开了圣安德鲁斯湾。可是我的心，早已经在成千上万的企鹅之中，融化了。Ushuaia again raised its anchor, and departed from St. Andrew's Bay. However, my heart has already melted among the thousands of penguins.德瑞伽尔斯基峡湾/Drygalski Fjord下午原本应该是在德瑞伽尔斯基峡湾中赏冰的。可惜的是，早上的大雾跟随着我们一同来到了南乔治亚岛的最东部。本可以看到无数小冰山和岛上最宏伟的冰川（下图），我们看到的却是浓浓的白色。别说冰川了，我连鞋子都看不清呢！Afternoon was supposed to be a cruise in the icy Drygalski Fjord. Yet sadly, the morning fog followed us to the easternmost part of South Georgia. Originally, we could see piles of small icebergs and a massive glacier (below), yet sadly we saw only a dense white. Let's not mention glaciers, I could not even see my shoes!正当大家无聊得出神的时候，船突然一下向左急转，把一大群人甩下了沙发。原来，大雾完全遮挡住了一座冰山，我们差30秒就险些撞上了！别看它貌似只有一个房子那么大（下图），学过物理的小伙伴们都知道水下是水上的九倍大，而且冰非常重，这样一个小冰山足以像切豆腐一样把我们全船洞穿。一见形势不妙，前面冰山只可能会更多不会更少，船长下令，立即撤出峡湾。While everyone was bored out of the mind, the ship suddenly turned left vehemently, throwing a lot of folks off the sofa. This is because the fog obscured an iceberg, and we were 30 seconds away from impact! Don't think it is merely the size of a gym (below), anyone who has studied physics would know the part underwater is 9 times larger than the one above, and ice is super dense. Just this one could go through us like knife through butter. Seeing there could only be more icebergs ahead, captain decided to pull out the fjord immediately.再会，企鹅天堂/Farewell, Penguin Paradise乌斯怀亚号鸣了一声笛，启航前往南极大陆，低沉的回音在浓雾之中渐渐扩散了开来，仿佛是南乔治亚向我们的道别。我站在观察甲板上，静静地向岛的方向挥了挥手：谢谢你，南乔治亚，福克兰，你们给我带来的，是对大自然无限的崇敬，也是对我自己最透彻的审视。Ushuaia sounded her horn, and began the journey towards Antarctic mainland. The somber resonance echoed in the dense fog, as if it was a farewell from South Georgia. I stood atop the observation deck, quietly waved towards the direction of the island: thank you, South Georgia. What you brought me, is the admiration to nature, and also a clear view of myself.仰望皑皑雪山之壮丽，我认识到了自我的渺小；置身于百万企鹅之中，我感觉到了世界的命脉；站上沙克尔顿长眠之地，我激发了内心徜徉已久的先驱精神。南乔治亚和福克兰，不仅仅是南极的秘密至宝，更是人类的探索圣殿。再会了，邃蓝的企鹅天堂。Among millions of penguins, I felt the pulse of this world; atop the final resting place of Shackleton, I inspired my innate adventure spirit; aside the snow-capped peaks, I realized my minute existence. South Georgia is not just a hidden jewel of Antarctica, it is humanity's sanctum of exploration. Farewell, the perpetually pretty penguin paradise.南乔治亚的旅程就到此为止了，谢谢大家的支持和鼓励，也希望您在这篇游记中收获了些许点滴。直接接着这篇的就是南极大陆了，也是绝对不容错过的哟！https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3437689-1.html若是喜欢，希望可以加一个收藏，或是点个赞，如果能够分享给小伙伴们的话那可就是更好了！再次感谢您的阅读，下面开始就是攻略啦！攻略/Guide装备/Gears来到南极，最好的装备是肯定不能少的。我去南极的时候还只是一个穷学生，所以自己带的单反和衣服都完全比不上其他同行者的。所以，我特别和船上其他几位咨询了一下，给你带来一些关于装备小贴士。衣物南极气候恶劣是不言而喻的，气候变化的非常快速，而南乔治亚更是多变，所以请按照最高标准配置。我的建议是多层layered而不是专门挑厚，原因在于这样子机动性会高很多，可以根据实时情况快速调整。一定要有以下的几个重要物品：- 防水防风的外层冲锋衣，我建议选择shell壳，这是第一层也是最重要的保护。（有些邮轮公司会统一派发，请注意通知）要保证袖子，领子，腰部都可以松紧调整，防止密闭不漏风，否则重力风一下子灌进来分分钟感冒。一定要带帽子的那种，最好不要可拆卸的那种帽子，原因在于那种帽子会漏风到后脑勺。颜色要鲜艳，避免淡蓝色和灰色，否则不太好在雪地中找到你（一般这种衣服都不会是这种颜色的）。最好要往大一号买，因为用到这个衣服的情况下基本上都会在里面穿着保暖层，所以不要按照贴身的买。如果可以带放水拉链口袋的话是最好的，有时候在登陆时，大风大浪会把全身都溅湿，所以可以把手机或者是其他小物品放进去是最保险的。我当时穿着的是始祖鸟Arc'teryx阿尔法系列带有Goretex技术的shell，非常轻便透气，还防水防刮擦。当然，透气，轻便，舒适这些都是次要的，但是能够满足的话也是最好。这个绝对不能省钱，因为好的冲锋衣可以跟随你一辈子，还可以在很多地方不同情况下使用，所以一定要注意：防风是最最重要的。上图：玻利维亚死亡之路山地自行车速降3000米海拔之后，所有其他人的衣服都被剧烈的摩擦弄破了，（我的内裤都烂了）唯独质量上乘的冲锋衣在暴雨和泥路之中没有损坏。下图：三年之后在亚马逊丛林里的沼泽中，靠着同一件冲锋衣的防水口袋，我的手机才幸免被1.5米深淤泥浸泡的灭顶之灾 （本照拍完三分钟后水就到胸口了）- 内层保暖层。选择一件比较保暖的fleece或是down大衣，鸭绒鹅绒都可以，或者是稍微厚一点的棉也可以。不需要防水或是抗水，但是不要选没有任何防水性的衣服，所以不要带针织毛衣，一旦湿了就丧失了保暖能力，反而会带走热量。这种衣服主要是在外层里面穿的，如果天气晴朗也没有风，也可以直接穿在外面，但是要注意不能让太多雪积在外层，否则会让里面的绒受潮。这件要贴住身体，不能留空挡。我当时带上的是始祖鸟的Fortrez夹克，我最喜欢的是它带有叫做balaclava的面罩，一拉上来就可以立刻保暖，也省去了围巾。下图：乞力马扎罗登顶全靠着以上两件搭配，面罩也在零下将近30度的非洲之巅派上了大用场- 贴身core恒温层：保暖的内衣，上下都要，最好是羊毛的，纯棉的也可以，但是一定要暖。这是最后一道防线，所以要紧贴身体。最好是能够保证你全身怎么样都不会限制你行动，所以弹力也要有保证，有时候在南极需要你跳或是跑动的，机动性要高。有一次我们的zodiac皮艇引擎坏了，被困在海上，最后靠着另外来的一艘艇营救才脱身，当时需要我们在大浪之中从一个艇跳到一米开外另外一个艇上面，脚跨不开那就游泳去了。-靠着以上三件，绝大部分时候就可以了，南极其实不是特别的冷，开放旅游的夏天基本上零下5度到零上10度左右，和国内很多地方的冬天差不多。不要带很多衣服，最后要么一次没穿过，要么包成粽子行动不便，或是出汗太多难受。- 防水裤：和冲锋衣一样，需要防水，但是不必买的很高级。主要能够防水，防风就可以了。- 腿部保暖层：我个人没有带，但是怕腿冷的话可以在内衣和外层之间加一层棉裤或是秋裤，但是一定要轻薄，否则的话对行动有可能会造成影响。- 鞋子：只要在船上有轻便的一双防滑鞋即可，不必防水，甲板上常常会有海水，而且船很晃，所以一定不能滑，否则就要去游泳了。船外甲板也不允许拖鞋和凉鞋。所有人登陆的时候都会有专门的重型橡皮靴子的，所以不必带自己的鞋子。我也听说了有些公司不提供橡胶鞋，那就一定要买厚重工作型鞋子，至少30厘米的高帮。否则有时候过河，水会灌进来，或是在雪地里面走路然后冰进来，那就惨了。下图：过河中（大家都把防水裤套在鞋子外面保证不会进水）- 手套：防水，能够耐寒，外面最好要有增加摩擦力的塑胶垫子，这样子可以紧握住自己的手机啊什么的，关键时刻也可以抓住队友或是地面等。- 袜子： 保暖保暖保暖！重要的事情说三遍，我的脚几乎都要被冻成冰棍了！地面都是雪，厚重的靴子也保护不了这种直接往骨头里面的冷。超厚袜子必备！- 墨镜： 雪盲症是很可怕的一种东西，如果去全是冰天雪地的地方就一定要带好，南乔治亚还可以，但是南极半岛一定需要。其他一些东西：-普通衣服：在船上你觉得怎么舒服怎么穿，但是建议是长袖，然后一件外套。我一般是穿我的fleece保暖层，原因在于有时候窗外看到海鸟，冰山，鲸鱼之类的需要马上抄上相机往外跑，有时候一呆在外面就是半小时，所以不能单衣。当然要好看的衣服这也是你的发挥机会啦！- 围巾： 如果你的外壳和保暖层没有面罩的话，就要带围巾，但是一般很多时候比较麻烦，选择保暖的，稍微防水一点的围巾。- 背包： 我是不建议登陆的时候带背包的，我直接就口袋里面带手机和一点小零食，相机挂在胸口用防水夹克包起来就好。但是你有东西一定要带的话找抗水的daypack，不要很大，十升足够了。当然摄影器材的话另当别论，可以考虑大一点的包把东西都带上。- 登山杖：如果你普通走路还是蛮自在的话你是不需要的。有时候要爬小山丘，但是绝大部分人我相信也是可以的啦！-正装：如果你选择的游轮行程有高级晚宴或是正式场合，你需要带比较好的正装，男生不一定要西装笔挺，但是至少要看起来比较正式。-泳装：有些行程可以让你在南极海里面游泳，如果胆子大想要尝试的话带泳装。（冷就一个字，我只说一次）毛巾船上会提供。摄影器材- 所有的电子器材都要保证可以在零下环境工作，如果你的相机很老的话，可能电池会在低温条件下受到影响，所以要注意。- 相机的话主要看你的要求了，一般人至少会带一个单反，再抄一部手机。单反的话我建议要额外带长焦（500mm+），很多时候你是不允许靠近企鹅栖息地的。当然和我一样的懒人带几个变焦就可以了。三脚架其实可以考虑，但是一定不是深深钉在地面的那种，会对环境造成破坏。- 我最大的一个遗憾是没有防水的仪器，很多时候在南极有开着zodiac环游海湾的项目，有一位队友就会用防水的照相机靠着自拍杆在水下拍摄，照出来的冰山，企鹅等等都是超美的。就是用得到的地方比较少，但是相机本身防水的话那是最好了。（水下拍请用自拍杆否则手会冻僵的）下图：水下拍摄的迷你冰山- go pro和其他运动类的不是很需要，因为其实没有很多大动作需要腾出手来。- 无人机：我去的时候都还没有无人机这种东西呢，但是你要问一下邮轮公司和组织公司他们是否允许，但是如果可以使用的话，请远离南极贼鸥和企鹅栖息地，前者会攻击无人机，后者会受到声音干扰。还有要注意南极风非常大，还有可能会突发冰雹，大雪等。摄影技巧- 我就随意介绍一些自己学到的小技巧，所以不是特别高级，请见谅！- 水上跳的企鹅：拉长焦，不要跟着企鹅走，而是要辨别企鹅的移动方向，预测路径，提前移动到前面去，然后从一看到它头出来了之后立刻连拍，不要等到企鹅完全出水才拍。这是最难拍摄的，所以如果它们变动轨迹或是错过的话重新再来，我拍了至少500张企鹅跳出水的照片最后才几张可以用。企鹅栖息地：小广角最好，最好找一只蜕毛的或是孵蛋的企鹅作为前景，它们不会一直动来动去。鲸鱼：水下拍摄是最理想的，否则的话喷气和甩尾其实照片里面看都不是那么震撼。海狮：穿鲜艳一点，海狮和海豹会对你比较感兴趣，朝着你这里看着的角度还是非常好的。冰山：角度最好大一点，无人机往下拍最好，看得出来水下的深度，水下拍摄也可以。冰山一个角度一个样，可以考虑建议船长绕着冰山走一圈。零食船上提供了很多吃的，但是不提供比较符合中国人口味的东西，所以可以考虑带一点榨菜咸菜，方便面火腿肠之类的。（请注意，若是在前往阿根廷乌斯怀亚之前需要在美国转机的话，需要在美国过海关，则需要保证你所带的食物是可以带入美国国境的。）方便面的话，肯定是选择桶面或是自己带个碗，一般情况下船上的热水可以随时要。而且不要忘了带筷子，很多时候餐厅以外是没有餐具的哦！还有一点就是能量棒或是高热量，容易携带的东西，有时候在南极登陆的时候会在一个地方不动呆很久，所以可以吃一点小点心保持体温。垃圾都要带回船上来。健康- 药物：根据你的行程，以及个人所需要经常服用的药物，带所需要行程+14天剂量，以防万一。- 常备：感冒药，拉肚子药，基本上就可以了，船上都会有医生，比较高级的药物他们一般都会准备。- 晕船：除非你是经验丰富的船老大，你是肯定要晕船的。船上都有免费发放晕船药，但是最大的问题就是那些药比较便宜，非常嗜睡，吃两片可以在床上躺一整天。到最后几天，我们船上基本只有一半的人还清醒得可以去吃午饭了。如果自己有晕船帖可以试试看，但是据说效果因人而异，还有可以自备比较好一点没有那么嗜睡的晕船药。- 防晒：臭氧层空洞就在南极，所以请一定做好防晒准备。我当时没怎么关心，在下一部分里面你就可以看到在短短一周内我就被南极的超强紫外线和雪面反射晒成了黝黑的非洲小哥哥，SPF至少要50。-润唇膏：南极其实是一个沙漠，干燥无比，所以请带上润唇膏，最好有防晒系数的，否则不会被干脱皮还是会被晒脱皮。当然对我这么糙的人，不带也没大碍，就是要做好准备天天舔嘴唇就是了。其他- 转换插头：建议买多用途的国际插头，很多时候船上的插头都残差不齐，我乘坐的乌斯怀亚号以前是美国科考船，所以是美国插头为主。购买前可以问一下邮轮公司他们用哪一个国家的插头。最好要一个转多个的转换插头，现在一个人一般都3-5个电子用品，所以为了不要争抢地盘，插头是越多越好的。- 充电宝：肯定要大一点，或是带两个，一个可以在出海登陆的时候带上，另一个放在房间冲，注意不要超过了国内飞行的安全限制，也要最好放在包包最里面以防锂电池因为低温受损。- 电脑：个人不建议带，如果你真的要在摇晃的船上编辑或是筛选的话可以考虑，但是一般船上都没有比较适合的办公桌，所以要准备在茶几上操作。- 网络：我去的时候南极是肯定没有网的，船上有一个工作人员的电脑，靠着龟速神贵的卫星上网，完全不可行，开一个新闻网站都要1分钟。现在据说开始有网了，但是还是很慢，发发消息最多了，不太可能发朋友圈，而且比较贵。我去的Orcadas科考站也有无线网，但是非常非常慢。- 娱乐：如果在家你一天什么都不做，没有网，你会干啥？看书？打毛线？打牌？带上喜欢的东西，航行途中你至少有5-10天完全没事干的日子，所以带两本长篇小说，或是像我一样带5副牌把全船都教会80分和斗地主就可以啦！- 洗衣服：有些船提供洗衣服服务，要么就可以带一点肥皂或是固态洗衣液，自己在厕所间把短裤和袜子搓一搓。- 钱：南乔治亚岛和福克兰群岛用的是福克兰英镑，在那里以外肯定是换不到的，但是他们都接受普通英镑。福克兰很多地方也接受信用卡，银联也开始有人使用了。事先问清楚船上和要去的科考站是使用什么货币的，一般用的是美金或本国货币，所以我们去的阿根廷科考站用的是阿根廷比索，船是阿根廷籍所以也是比索。船上都不接受信用卡，但是可以记账到你的名头上，在回到阿根廷乌斯怀亚后去他们的办公室用卡算总账。钱在船上可以买纪念品，还可以在酒吧里面点饮料，还有就是给喜欢的船员小费。小费一般是包括了，但是问清楚邮轮公司是否需要准备零钱小费每天给，还是一笔大的小费最后给，或是不必给。- 名片：可以在最后和其他人互相交换，因为到旅程结束大家肯定都是好朋友了，也可以带一张叫其他人照像。- 礼物：答谢向导和船员用，一般不需要，所以准备几个有中国特色的小礼物送给最喜欢的几个人即可。- 望远镜：真的硬核观鸟或是观察动物可以考虑，在船上你可以看到很多形形色色的鲸鱼和鸟类，但是没有望远镜有时候会有点遗憾。很多海鸟在航行时会靠的很近。下图：不用长焦，普通50mm就可以拍到很近的白鞘嘴鸥关于游轮和南极/About Cruises & Antarctica南极空路还是水路去南极主要两个办法，海路和空路，绝大部分都是走海路的，原因是比较便宜（一万美金左右，空路要翻2到3倍）。这是在于，南极上没办法过夜，游轮的话最简单，可以在船上睡，而空路一般是需要在研究站里面安排，所以非常复杂。我个人建议有钱也还是走海路，你这样看的东西多，而且可以切身体会到南极是多么的遥远。当然，要去南极点那还是一定要走空路的。出行季节每年的夏天航行季节是10月中到3月底。11月以前可以看到企鹅蜕毛，交配，还有大量的积雪。12月到1月是最贵也是最火的，可以看到企鹅孵蛋，还有小企鹅出生。2月 中国人去最多的时候，在中国旅行团这边定春节团是最贵的。2月和3月看得到稍微成熟一点的小企鹅，（所以这时候企鹅最多）雪基本上也化掉了，鲸鱼在这段时间也比较容易看到。由于11天的快速南极半岛来回程最好赚，有很多游轮公司一年只跑1到2次南乔治亚，一般11月到2月全部只跑南极半岛，南乔治亚只有10月和3月各一次了。如果可以找到11或是12月的南乔治亚的话是最最理想的行程。行程选择游轮公司现在很多，提供的行程大同小异，而且一家公司就配套一艘船，所以选择公司的话就看下一部分选船的贴士。最重要的是选择哪一个行程。你一般看到的是11天10夜的行程，7000到20000美金不等，看船的高档程度。但是我觉得如果可以避免，不要选11天的项目，整个行程光是跨过德雷克通道就要2天半左右，所以来回就是5天浪费在海上，再加上头尾两天在乌斯怀亚港口内，非常不值。去南极游轮是越长越好，如果有15天那种过南极圈的话就不错。你在这一篇也看到了南乔治亚的美，所以毋庸置疑，我一律推荐带有南乔治亚的行程。如果真的不关心企鹅，只要踏上南极大陆的话，那就选择11天10夜的经典南极行程吧。船的选择船一定要是INSB抗冰C级以及以上，不过这一般不必担心，所有的公司都有专门做南极的船，符合要求。但是需要做研究的是船的大小和利弊。大船豪华，设施齐全，人多热闹，摇晃不是特别剧烈，价格可能会便宜点，但是速度慢，灵活性差，去不了很多水浅的地方。最大弱点就是很多地方有人数限制，若是允许80人同时在岸上，一艘小船就可以全员登陆5小时，但是大船就要轮换，一个人只能在陆地上待2.5小时。像 普里 昂岛只允许40人，所以大船是没时间让所有人都登陆的。更不要说按照规定，超过500人的船是不允许登陆任何地方的。小船就相反，例如我乘坐的MV乌斯怀亚号，是一艘INSB抗冰C级的探险船，最大载客88人，她的最高时速是14节，非常快，排水量2923吨，长278英尺，宽51英尺，吃水18英尺，算是很小的船了。南极有将近30艘船在跑，比她小的只有3艘。相比其他抗冰能力较强的探险游轮来说，她非常小巧灵活，机动性强，可靠度高，但是这小身板也有坏处，在浪高风急的南极海中，她如落叶一般摇摆不定，摇晃非常厉害。可是为了能够靠着她小巧的身材前往一些其他大船无法到达的地方，我也就忍了。所以强烈建议：不要怕晕船，绝对不要选超过500人的船，一定要选择200人以下的船，越小越好。奢华游轮？我看到越来越多的超高级游轮公司推出了新的极度奢侈产品，但是一定要思考是否物有所值。真的要为房间里面多加一个全自动咖啡机多出三万么？私人加热游泳池？房间里免费点心吧二十四小时自助？这个真的有必要多花2倍的钱么？去南极的船都有非常多的大小和环保限制，所以不论怎么样你在前往南极的路上都会遭遇到大量的颠簸和寒风，想要和加勒比海的巨型游轮达到同样的舒适系数是不可能的。我个人建议如果真的愿意花钱，每个人可支出预算达到30万的话，可以考虑走空路了。中国人包船我看了一下，中国人包船的行程基本上都非常不好，而且船大人多，与南极之行最基本的目的背道而驰，不推荐。船舱这是可以考虑用钱缓解压力的一个部分，如果喜欢的话可以定套房（我这次的行程中套房为一人14000美金），比较宽敞，也有观景阳台可以透透气。依次下来还有双人房（11000），单人房（11500），简易单人间（10500），以及双人上下铺间（9500）。但是我这个穷学生选择的是最最便宜的三人上下铺间（8800），但是其实真的也还可以，乌斯怀亚号上的每一个房间都至少有一个窗，而且绝大部分醒着的时间都不是在船舱里面度过的，所以我很少遇到室友或是感觉到拥挤。价格和订船位南极游轮提早2-3年就可以订票，行程早就确定好了。价格一般是越提早订越好，但是其实差的不多。现在南极非常非常火，基本上游轮公司怎么开价都会客满，所以没有很好的省钱机会。但是有一个比较冒险的办法就是提早，十月中就来到乌斯怀亚开始等着，一般游轮公司在乌斯怀亚市中心都有办公室，在启航之前最后几天如果还有空位，他们会打折出售，例如我的8800美金行程在出发那一天的价格是5800。可惜的是南极最近越来越供不应求，所以空位很少，而且知道这个小秘诀的人也越来越多，所以最后一分钟抢票也有竞争，导致价格也不会特别便宜。尊重- 南极条约：全世界大多数国家都签署了南极条约，对所有南纬六十度以南的陆地无限期搁置主权争议以及划分。所以南纬五十度的福克兰和南乔治亚岛不属于条约的范围内，完全由英国管辖，但是所有南极其他地方全部都是无国家无政府状态，相当于是公海，游轮的船长有最终管辖权，而船只悬挂的国旗国家的法律一般可以适用。- 环境：南极条约还保护了南极的生态，所以在南极行走时，尽量避免踩到本地的苔藓，一般一脚踩下去就要花20年才能长回来。请不要快步靠近企鹅和海豹，以免惊吓到他们，若它们不主动靠近，你需要保留至少5米的距离。听从向导的管理，留在他们设定的安全区域之中。南极的一草一物都受到国际条约的保护，所以也不能拿回家作为纪念品。- 福克兰和马尔维纳斯：英国人控制的福克兰群岛就是阿根廷宣誓主权的马尔维纳斯群岛。这是我本次航行非常重要的话题，由于全船的船员是阿根廷人，而且游客之中也有很多英国人和阿根廷人，所以全程大家都非常尊重每个人的观点，不强行把自己的想法灌输给他人。如果你选择的也是带有这个岛屿的行程的话，要特别注意是否有一些对政治比较看重的英国人或是阿根廷人。在阿根廷时，一律以马尔维纳斯称呼你要去或是你去过的这个目的地。在福克兰群岛本地时候，一般用福克兰群岛称呼，如果遇到特别的本地人跟你纠正的话，只要点头接受即可。签证和机票/Visa and Flights签证阿根廷是需要签证的，而福克兰群岛，南乔治亚岛和南极洲不需要任何手续。如果你要在美国转机，你也需要申请美国签证。阿根廷签证可以在上海和北京大使馆申请，理论上来说单次签证即可，因为福克兰和南极半岛对于阿根廷政府来说都是属于本国国内的，但是为了保险起见还是申请10年多次签证。机票其实很多人不知道，我的所有旅行都是根据便宜机票来走的。环绕世界八十万公里的行程，我都看了机票价格5年的脸色，我也可以算作是机票小达人了啦~！下图：17年买到的1000出头人民币来回北美的日航机票，最后还被升舱到商务了呢建议：先买到布宜诺斯艾利斯，再额外买来回乌斯怀亚的机票。或是有时间，买到智利圣地亚哥或是秘鲁利马，然后从那里飞布宜诺斯艾利斯，再飞乌斯怀亚。最近LATAM和Norwegian都撤出了阿根廷，导致了阿根廷航空在国内一家独大，非常不利于直接买带有阿根廷国内程的国际机票。当然，有签证的同学们可以考虑先买票飞到美国，然后从美国额外买一程前往南美，可以大大降低开支。总体上来说，尽可能分开买，最好买：中国来回到美国（迈阿密，洛杉矶，纽约最好），然后再从那里分开买一段来回布宜诺斯艾利斯的票，然后再买布宜诺斯艾利斯来回乌斯怀亚的票。还有要注意，很多南美国家有所谓的“本地人票”，在西班牙语官网上可以买到，非常非常便宜。但是理论上来说是需要查你有没有本地人的证件的，可是我在哥伦比亚、秘鲁、智利、阿根廷都买过这个票，基本上没有被查的风险，可以考虑。我这次是买的洛杉矶去玻利维亚拉巴斯，再从智利圣地亚哥回洛杉矶的票，加上途中阿根廷国内的三程票，以及智利国内蓬塔阿雷纳斯的票，总共才花了1000美元，当然这肯定不适合绝大部分小伙伴，因为我特意请了假期从玻利维亚一路往南，之后从乌斯怀亚一路向北走了四个月。游轮前后航班一般邮轮公司会告诉你可以在出发当天飞抵乌斯怀亚，然后在下船的那一天离开。我的个人建议是提早至少一晚到达乌斯怀亚，因为阿根廷的内部局势还是常常会有大规模游行或是罢工的现象，而且在乌斯怀亚可以整理行装，把自己不需要带到船上去的东西提前交付给游轮公司的办公室保管。离开时可以下船直接去机场，不必担心船延误导致的问题。个人推荐留至少4-5小时缓冲，不要订中午之前从乌斯怀亚机场出发的航班。其他/Other Info语言基本上所有的船都是英语为主。我们的船有一大部分说西班牙语的乘客，而且所有船员都是阿根廷人，所以西班牙语也是惯用语言之一。一般来说，我建议至少要会一点基本的英语，原因在于紧急事件或是需要逃生的时候，语言障碍是万万不得的。而且，南极的一大乐趣是和其他船上人员沟通聊天，以及在船上的讲座里面学习知识然后现学现用。不过真的没办法也不必担心，现在基本上所有行程里面都会有其他的华人，所以可以和几个其他来自大陆、香港、台湾乃至海外的同胞们交一下朋友，请他们帮忙翻译一下。保险邮轮公司都会有要求，但是至少你的保险要保证万一事故发生，所有的殡葬费用会有保到。大部分公司还要保证公海的紧急援助要有保证，所以保费是相当昂贵的。所以购买保险之前请咨询你定的游轮公司。在乌斯怀亚市乌斯怀亚有不少可以逛街的地方，也可以做一下最终的整理确认，如果少了什么可以在主路市集上买。那里的帝王蟹也是很不错的料理，尽管本地人除了水煮以外不是很会烧。“我们需永不停息地探索，方能在发现一切之后，回到出发之地，以第一次的眼光，重新认识最初的伊始。” ---著名现代诗人，T.S.艾略特“We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time.”---T.S. Eliot---------------------FIN---------------------非常感谢阅读！如果有希望前往南极的话，可以随时来问我问题哟！如果喜欢的话就给我点个赞吧！下一篇南极大陆再会咯！
