“我们旅行不是为了从人生的指间悄悄溜走，而是为了让人生不从我们的指间悄悄溜走。” ---佚名“We travel not to escape life, but for life to not escape us.” --- Anonymous【注】为给您带来最好的阅读体验，中英内容略有不同。当然，对英文不感冒的小伙伴们不用担心。[NOTE] For your best reading experience, Chinese and English contents may differ.在这篇游记中，你会看到：- 把照相机显示弄坏的火红彩霞；- 世界上第一个南极研究站；- 从水里跃出的欢快企鹅；- 烧烤鲸鱼排；- 被鸟类占据的沉没挪威捕鲸船；- 碧蓝的天加上丝滑的雪；- 南极大陆的本色。In this journal, you will encounter:- Sunset so vibrant that it breaks camera displays- The first Antarctic research station ever built- Jolly penguins hopping out of the water- Barbequed whale steak- Norwegian whaler ship taken over by birds- Azure sky and silky smooth snow- True nature of Antarctica人间仙境/Heaven On Earth这个世界上令人神往的地方比比皆是。尽管我尽了全力想要玩遍全球，但是每次出行，我都会发现有更多不为人知的美妙之地。所以些许年的流浪之后，我总是觉得还有很多地方没有来得及去，心愿单不但没有减少，反而越来越长。可是有一片去过的大陆却让我无法忘怀：南极。有些地方，可以美到让你想立刻去重新体会，而南极，就是这种人间仙境。This world is full of places that pique one's inner wanderlust. However, even though I have tried my hardest to tour the world, every time I venture outside, I would discover more hidden places that go onto my bucket list, which has been growing instead of decreasing. However, there is a piece of land that I have visited yet still cannot get out of my mind: Antarctica. There are some places that is so breathtaking that it compels you to visit again, and Antarctica, is this kind of heaven on Earth.请你做好心理准备，这篇游记包括的是无尽的蓝、白、和透明。单纯的雪地不需要任何渲染，纯洁的南极不需要任何杂色。这是最后一片没有被人类侵蚀的净土，这是大自然，我们的母亲，在世界上最后可以自由发挥的画卷。Please mentally prepare yourself. This journal contains endless blue, white, and colorless beauty. A sheet of snow needs not any decoration, and the pure Antarctica needs not other colors. This is the last virgin land that has escaped the corruption of human kind, and this is the last canvas on which mother nature can freely express her creativity.闭上你的眼睛，想象这一片无尽的白，两耳完全没有城市嘈杂的喧嚣，身边没有任何人工的建造。只有你，蓝天，通透的冰山，和水中自在游弋的企鹅。一切，都突然不重要了；存在，反而就是人生意义的所在。Close your eyes, and imagine this endless white. The ears are devoid of the raucous city commotion; there is no human creation to be found anywhere. Only you, the blue sky, semi-translucent iceberg, and penguins frolicking in the water. Suddenly, everything does not matter anymore. Instead, existing, has become the meaning of life itself.很好，你的灵魂已经准备好接受南极的纯洁之美了，所以请跟随着我的脚步，来体验这个白色的天堂。让我们一起前往地图上都没有标识的无名之地，感受其他人无法理解的仙境吧。Good, your soul is ready to feel the beauty of purity Antarctica has to offer. So, please follow my footsteps, and experience this white heaven. Let's venture towards places unmarked on maps, and experience this world of spirituality others won't be able to comprehend.欢迎来到南极。Welcome to Antarctica.行程/Itinerary我的南极洲之行是一次将近一个月的长途航行，分为上下两部分。This Antarctica part is a long voyage about one month long, and is divided into 2 parts.上部分是福克兰群岛和南乔治亚岛（https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3427825-1.html）本文是南极诸岛和南极大陆First part is Falkland Islands and South Georgia（https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3427825-1.html）This part is Antarctic Islands and Antarctica mainland proper下图：南极航行路线图/Below: the path I took for the Antarctic voyage上图：南奥克尼群岛在世界上的位置/Above: South Orkney Islands' location in this world本次航行前四天拜访福克兰群岛（请见上部分），第五至第十天在南乔治亚的百万企鹅之中度过（请见上部分），第十一天航行至南奥克尼群岛，之后前往南极半岛，在南极半岛的具体行程如下。The voyage's first four days are spent in Falkland Islands, and the fifth to tenth day among the million penguins in South Georgia. Eleventh day is South Orkney Islands, and then proceeded to Antarctic Peninsula, with the exact itinerary as the following.下图：南极半岛行程/Below: Antarctic Peninsula Itinerary【注】由于大部分地区没有中文名，所有地名为个人翻译。（第一到第十天见上篇游记）第十一天：公海航行第十二天：到达南奥克尼群岛，拜访南极第一个科考站，Orcadas科考站第十三天：抵达南极大陆最北端，大象岛第十四天：抵达南设得兰群岛，拜访了Robert Island罗伯特岛第十五天：进入Gerlache Strait杰拉许海峡，于Hydrurga Rocks海豹岩和Foyn Harbour福音湾登陆第十六天：深入南下，到达Orne Harbour奥恩港，和Cuverville Island库夫维尔岛第十七天：由西海岸北上，在Deception Island欺骗岛和Halfmoon Island半月岛登陆第十八天：和南极挥别，德雷克海峡航行第十九天：德雷克海峡航行，抵达南美洲最南端，进入比格尔海峡，庆典仪式第二十天：于乌斯怀亚市下船，结束南极航行(First ten days please refer to last journal)Day 11: Open seaDay 12: Arrive at South Orkney Islands, and visit the first research station in Antarctica, OrcadasDay 13: Arrival at the northernmost point of Antarctic mainland, Elephant IslandDay 14: In South Shetland Island, visited Robert Point and Robert IslandDay 15: Penetrate Gerlache Strait, landings at Hydrurga Rocks and Foyn HarbourDay 16: Continue south, and got to Orne Harbour and Cuverville IslandDay 17: Back up north via west coast, landed on Deception Island and Halfmoon IslandDay 18: Wave farewell to Antarctica, sailing in Drake PassageDay 19: Sailing in Drake Passage, arrived at the southern tip of South America and entered Beagle Channel, congratulation ceremonyDay 20: disembark in Ushuaia city, the end of the Antarctic voyage我强烈建议先去看看上部分，之后再来读本篇，关联性会更加强一点。那不多说了，现在正文开始！I strongly recommend you to read the previous journal first, and then come read this final chapter for a stronger sense of continuity.Without further ado, let's begin the main portion of the journal!公海航行/Open Sea第十一天，11月3日Day 11, November 3rd八节西风，多云、雪、冰雹，负一摄氏度8 knots east wind, -1°C, cloudy/snowy/hail从南乔治亚离开后，一行人都焦躁不安地等待着下一个奇迹的发生。看过百万企鹅的壮观澎湃之后，大家都一致认为南极不太可能再有什么令人震撼的景观了。可是在我们无所事事打发在船上摇来晃去的这几天时，我们其实正在悄悄地接近这世界真正无与伦比的美丽......Upon depature from South Georgia, the gang was anxious for the next miracle. After witnessing the million-penguin spectacle, we agreed that Antarctica probably did not have too many tricks up its sleeves any more. Yet as we wasted our time on the open sea, trying to spend the days rocking back and forth on the sea doing anything, we were silently approaching this world's true beauty...下图：德国妹子Ulrike打毛衣消磨时间/Below: German girl Ulrike knitting to past time南奥克尼群岛/South Orkneys Islands第十二天，11月4日Day 12, November 4th24节西南风，负五摄氏度，加上风寒负十九摄氏度，冰片、冰雹24 knots southwest wind, -5°C, -19°C w/wind chill, ice pallets/hail60°44.7'S, 44°42.9'W将近两天的漂泊之后，我们终于看到了陆地。这是Laurie Island劳利岛，南奥克尼群岛第二大的岛屿。巨大的冰川完全覆盖了整个视野，只留出一小块陆地，这上面坐落的就是本日的登陆点：Orcadas欧尔卡达斯科学考察站。After nearly two days of wandering, we finally reached land. This is Laurie Island, the second largest of the South Orkney Island group. A gigantic glacier covered the entire view, with barely a piece of land left visible. This is the location of our landing site today: Orcadas research station.上图：远眺Orcadas科考站/Above: Orcadas Research Station from afar我们靠近时，全站的队员们都来到了岸边迎接我们，毕竟这是很少有船来拜访的科考站之一，而且乌斯怀亚号是过去半年中第一艘来Orcadas的造访船只。16位寂寞难耐的男性研究员们早已经迫不及待，早在我们抵达之前2天就发了电报来：“你们有人有带香烟吗？”As we approached, the entire crew came to welcome us. This is one of the research stations rarely visited by ships, and Ushuaia was the first ship to have visited in 6 months. 16 lonely male researchers were so eager that they sent radio 2 days before our arrival, asking:“Does anyone have cigarettes?”上图：满海湾的南极海燕/Above: a bay full of Antarctic petrels这里纬度高于60度南，所以受到南极条约的保护，也在政治上属于南极。别看Orcadas没什么特别华丽的装饰或是现代的设备，这个基地可是所有南极探索的老祖宗。沙滩上的一个石头墙是欧蒙德房，在南极的第一个建筑物，由苏格兰探险队于1903年过冬时建造。后来，苏格兰人们把这个基地交给了阿根廷管理，所以现在这是阿根廷在南极的科考站，也是世界上第一个南极科考站。The latitude here exceeds 60 degrees south, so it is under the protection of Antarctic treaty, and politally belongs to Antarctica. Do not think Orcadas is nothing because it does not have fancy decorations or modern technologies; this is the grandfather of all Antarctic expeditions. A rocky wall on the beach is the Omond House, the first structure built in Antarctica, constructed by the Scottish expeidition in 1903. Later, it was given to the Argentines for management, so Orcadas is an Argentinean research station today, as well as the very first research station in Antarctica.下图：欧蒙德房/Below: Omond House上图：在南极的第一科考站！/Above: at the first research station in Antarctica~!参观完一个小小的博物馆后，我来到了岛上的墓地。小小的白色十字架们一字排开，埋葬的大部分都是当年被困冻死的挪威捕鲸人。如今，这历史悠久的墓地还在阐述着这里的百年沧桑。After checking out a tiny museum, I arrived at the local cemetery. White small crosses formed a row, most of them belonging to Norwegian whalers stuck here and froze to death. Even till today, this monumental graveyard is still telling us the tortured history of the past century.上图：六层保护的水管/Above: water pipe with six layers of protection大家都被热情好客的阿根廷科队员们邀请进入他们的科考站内一探究竟。除了里面暖和得让我直出汗，其实整个内部环境还是非常舒适的。这里不但有别无二致的寝室和实验室，还有医务室，酒吧，休息室等等。令我惊讶的是，这里不但有电视直播，居然还有无线网络！！！The team was warmly welcomed into the station by the hospitable Argentines. Other than the extreme warmth inside, I was surprised by the comfort offered here. Not only do you have the expected dormitory and labs, there are also a medical bay, a bar, a lounge, etc. What shocked me was that there was not only live TV, but also wifi!!!下图：医务室/Below: Medical bay上图：酒吧/Above: bar下图：历年科考队员合影/Below: photos of past research teams队员们请了我们一顿下午茶，还摆出来了很多小纪念品以供购买。在这里光是要寄明信片就要20多美金一张，我还是忍痛发了好几张。这主要是因为每年只有一艘补给船可以把明信片运出去，然后靠着阿根廷军队邮局审核之后发出，所以不但非常贵，而且特别慢：我7个月之后才收到这些明信片！The team members treated us to an afternoon tea, and laid out a variety of souvenirs for us to purchase. Here, just sending a postcard costs 20 US dollars, and yet I still bled for a few. This is because every year, only 1 supply ship carries out the cards, and then the Argentine military post system has to verify and then send them out, so it is not only expensive, but also slow: I got mine after a solid 7 months!下图：全是冰山的海湾/Below: Bay full of icebergs整个海湾搁浅了大大小小十几座冰山，每个都被海水冲刷侵蚀多年，形态不一。正当我摆弄冰块玩的不亦乐乎之际，一只企鹅摇摇摆摆从身边擦过。这可是非常难见到的阿德勒企鹅。白色的眼圈，粉红的脚蹼，可以算是企鹅里面最高雅的存在了。这也是这次航行所见到的第五种企鹅！A dozen icebergs of various sizes are beached here in the bay, each eroded by the sea water, left in a bunch of strange shapes. While I was playing with the ice cubes, a penguin brushed by waddling. This is a rare Adele penguin, with its unmistably elegant white eye ring and pink feet. This is also the fifth kind of penguin we witnessed in this trip!下图：阿德勒企鹅/Below: Adele penguin在傻萌的企鹅渐渐远去之时，也是返回船上的最后机会了。搭乘着最后一艘摆渡，我和科考队员们挥手分别。和我们不一样，他们可一点都不伤心：船上的厨师送给了他们两颗卷心菜，五个月没看到新鲜蔬菜的他们眼睛都亮了呢！As the chonky penguin got afar, it was time to return to ship. On the last zodiac back, I waved goodbye to the research station personnels. Unlike us, they were not sad at all: our chefs gifted them two cabbages, and their eyes were practically glowing after 5 months without seeing fresh veggies!下图：说再见/Below: Saying goodbye南设得兰群岛/South Shetland Islands一路南下，不一会儿，四周全部都是庞大的块状冰山，几十层楼高，几公里长，把四周的视线全部占据。这一天一夜的航行全部都是在这些巨人的身边来回穿梭，有些大到一眼看不到边。它们绝大部分都是南极大陆冰川断裂留下来的，所以最大的有几百公里长，在太空都看得到呢！Continuing south, within hours, we were surrounded by enormous tabular icebergs. A dozen floors tall, kilometers wide, they took over the horizon. This day and night of voyage was spent weaving between these giants, some of them so big that you cannot see the other end. They are mostly remnants of Antarctic mainland's glacial remnants, so some of them are hundreds of kilometers wide, even visible in space!下图：远处若隐若现的冰山/Below: icebergs looming in the distance在船上，大部分老年人吃不消海上的摇晃，吃了晕船药在床上躺着，然而我们一群年轻人都不是一般的无聊。我已经教会了所有人各种中国经典牌局，从八十分到斗地主，一群外国小哥们凑在一起打的不亦乐乎。而打输不想陪我们玩的查理则安心地躺在太阳下，第五次翻阅着她最爱的那本小说书。Onboard, most older folks could not bear the rocking, so they took their sea sickness pills and lied down on bed, yet our group of younger folks were bored out of our minds. I had already taught the entire group a whole list of Chinese poker games, and these new students congregated together playing it without any realization of time. While Charlie, who did not want to play with the boys, decided to busk under the sunlight while reading her favorite novel for the fifth time.大象岛/Elephant Island第十三天，11月5日Day 13, November 5th30节西北风，负二摄氏度，晴、阴30 knots northwest wind, -2°C, sunny/overcast61°06'S, 54°52'W午后，我们终于抵达了南极大陆最靠北的陆地：象岛。这个荒岛看似平凡，实则上是历史中南极最重要的地方之一。读过我上一篇南乔治亚游记的童鞋们肯定记得，这就是夏克尔顿被困的孤岛，也是从这里他启航出发，划船完成了前无古人后无来者的最后一搏。Afternoon, we finally arrived at the northernmost land in Antarctica: Elephant Island. This barren island seems plain, but actually is one of the most important historic landmarks. If you have taken a look of my South Georgia journal, you will know that this is the place where Shackleton was stuck on, and also where he rowed his boat towards an unprecedented miracle.气候恶劣，狂风大作，乌斯怀亚号无法靠近象岛进行登陆，所以一行人只好作罢，远眺当年南极英雄滞留的Point Wild狂野角。Harsh weather and vehement gales prohibited Ushuaia from approaching Elephant Island, so we had to give up, and resort to viewing Point Wild, where the Antarctic heroes were born, from afar.罗伯特岛/Robert Island第十四天，11月6日Day 14, November 6th30节西南风，负二摄氏度，晴、雪30 knots southwest wind, -2°C, sunny/snowy62°28'S, 59°23'W一早醒来，窗外莫名其妙的黑暗。我好奇地往外面一探，瞬间倒吸了两口冷气：一座硕大的冰山就在旁边，将大部分的阳光都遮挡在了后面。这个无名遮阳伞一边高耸，另一头扁平，就这样陪伴着我们吃了早餐。Upon waking up, the outside seemed unusually dark. I curiously stuck my head out, and was taken aback: a gigantic iceberg was right beside us, blocking out most of the sunlight. This nameless sunblock has one side tall and one side flat, and accompanied us during the breakfast.这种冰山已经被侵蚀多年，所以水下可能有大量不规则形状，非常危险，不能够轻易靠近。我们围着它绕了一圈后，便继续前进，来到了南设得兰的罗伯特岛。This kind of iceberg has been eroded for years, so there may be many irregularities under the water. The danger prohibits approaches, so we circled around it and proceeded to Robert Island of South Shetlands.上图：罗伯特岛冰川/Above: glacier at Robert Island南极的天气说变就变，刚刚还是大晴天，结果没多少时间，一阵大雪从冰川飘来，给所有在甲板上等待摆渡的人们盖上了一层白棉袄。Antarctic weather was so unpredictable. It was just sunny, yet within minutes a large squall moved over from the glaciers, and dumped a white layer of snow onto everyone on the deck waiting to board the zodiac.下图：这就是为什么在南极要多层穿戴/Below: This is why you need to dress in layers here上图：罗伯特岛/Above: Robert Island除了一个小小的石子滩，全岛一片雪白，偶尔有几个冰原岛峰从中凸出来（如上图），这些是由纯冰千百万年中切割出来的山巅。在英语里面，冰原岛峰这个词nunatak是从爱斯基摩语舶来的。With the exception of a tiny pebble beach, the island is completely white, with an occasional nunatak jutting out from the ice field. These are mountain peaks that was cut through millions of years by glaciers. And the word “nunatak” is a borrowed word from Eskimo language.上图：两只南极贼鸥互相敬礼/Above: tow Antarctic skuas greeting each other在海滩上，数千只企鹅忙的停不下来。大量的金图企鹅来回穿梭，而空中则完全被好几只贼鸥占据。但是最令人兴奋的是本次南极航行遇到的第六种企鹅：颊带企鹅。这种企鹅非常好辨认：脸颊有一条黑带的，就是这种非常好斗的南极企鹅。On the beach, thousands of penguins were too busy to take note of us. Many gentoo penguins dashed around, while the air was taken over by a few Antarctic skuas. Yet the most exciting is the sixth kind of penguin encountered during this voyage: chinstrap penguin. They are really easy to tell, if it has a black strap around its chin, it is this feisty kind of fella.一座小山丘向阳的一面雪已经化尽，裸露出光秃秃的岩石。在这里，大量的颊带企鹅聚集在一起筑巢产卵。尽管它们的蛋可以在冰上正常孵化，但是绝大部分还是强烈偏好在不是冰的平面上繁育后代。The sunny side of a little hill had lost its icy cover, revealing barren rocks. Here, large number of chinstrap penguins congregated to mate in their nests. Even though their eggs can hatch normally on ice, most of them still strongly prefer to raise their young on surfaces that are not ice.下图：寻找筑巢的岩石/Below: looking for rocks to build它们还特别喜欢登高，巢是要造的越高越好。所以你看上图，为了争夺在这块石头上休息的权利，好几只企鹅还争吵了一番呢。They also really like heights, with their nests the higher the better. As you can see above, in order to gain the rights to rest on this rock, a few of penguins quarreled quite a while!下图：抬头挺胸走起来/Below: chin high, head high, let's go!这片混乱之中，还有不少其他的动物夹杂在企鹅的喧嚣之内。最多的便是来去自如的南极海燕，以及它们最突出的剪刀尾。In this commotion, there are a few other animals mixed in the penguin chaos. The most recognizable is the Antarctic tern, and its prominent scissor-tail.下图：南极海燕/Below: Antarctic tern上图：排成队喝奶/Above: line up to drink milk然而最夺人眼球的还是刚出生的小海豹。肥嘟嘟圆滚滚的小海豹不但不怕生，而且特别好奇，一边哇哇叫，一边一摇一摆磨蹭地靠近我，两只浑圆的大眼睛把我浑身上下萌的是当场融化 (*/ω＼*)Yet the most eye-catching was newborn seal pups. These chubby bois not only are not scared of humans, but also are very curious. While gently rwaring, they slowly snuggled upon me. The two large watery eyes instantly triggered my “dawwww” mode, shattering my masculinity.下图：萌死我了啦！！！/Below: AWWWWWWWW上图：顶不住了！！！/Above: I can't stand it any more!!!实在受不了了啦！！太萌了！！这可是犯罪啊！我不行了，我先撤退了，你们吃好喝好哈。。。I can't bear it! It is too adorable!!! This is criminal!!! I can't do this, gonna get outta here, you guys have fun...下图：还吐舌头，我跪还不行么/Below: and even does the “bleh”, I gotta give him this one在附近的冰原上，你还看得到我在南乔治亚篇中解释过的重力风。在上图中，你可以勉强看得到被这寒风带下来的冰雪。普通人没有防护，几分钟之内就会在这个风中失去知觉。On a nearby ice field, you can still see the katabatic wind that I explained in South Georgia journal. You can barely see the snow it is carrying down in the above photo. Without protection, an average human will freeze to unconsciousness in a few minutes in this wind.和企鹅们道别后，一行人回到乌斯怀亚号上，准备继续向南进发。After bidding farewell to the penguins, the gang returned to Ushuaia, and continued south.海豹岩/Hydrurga Rocks第十五天，11月7日Day 15, November 7th24节西南风，负二摄氏度，晴、多云24 knots southwest wind, -2°C, sunny/cloudy64°08'S, 61°37'W夜间，乌斯怀亚号向南又行进了一百多公里，进入了杰拉许海峡。一大早，所有人便整装待发，来到了海豹岩登陆。Overnight, Ushuaia moved another hundred kilometers south, entering Geralche Strait. In the morning, everyone got ready and prepared to land at Hydrurga Rocks.下图：翻转过来的冰山/Below: an iceberg that has turned over一片白茫茫的雪地上歇息着大量的企鹅。不少没找到老婆的单身汉们也在一边打闹，丝毫不理会背后那蓝得发光的冰山。这一幅美景，去世界其他任何地方，都是找不到的。The plain white snow supported numerous penguins. Some bachlors who failed to have a mate also were playing at the side, completely ignoring the translucently blue iceberg. This kind of beauty is unheard of anywhere else on the world.由于这里只有冰雪覆盖的陆地，繁殖的企鹅明显少了很多。但是在这片冰山四伏的海域之中有大量的磷虾，所以食物来源是绝对有保证的。好几只爸爸企鹅小心翼翼地保护着蛋，不让我们靠近一看究竟。Because there is only land covered with ice, there were much fewer breeding penguins. Yet in this sea full of krill, the food source is readily abundant. A few papa penguins carefully protected their eggs, prohibiting us from approaching for scrutiny.不过越往南，除了企鹅以外的鸟类就越少了，在这里，唯一能够看到的就是蓝眼鸬鹚了。它们在企鹅攀爬不到的峭壁上筑巢繁衍，也给乌云密布的天空之中添加了一道它们眼睛之中的蓝色。However, the further south you go, the fewer birds remain other than penguins. Here, the only kind you can see are the blue-eyed cormorants. They reside and breed on steep cliffs where penguins cannot reach, adding a hue of blue from their eyes into the gloomy palette of the sky.杰拉许海峡/Geralche Strait我们回到船上，开始向南的最后一程。今日的目标便是尽可能的向南行进，看看到底可以开到哪里！春天才刚刚结束，大量的浮冰阻塞了水道，我们不得不缓慢地绕行，所以我们能够走多远还是要听天由命。We returned to te boat, and began the last push towards south. Today's goal is to go as far south as possible, and see where we can end up! Spring just ended, and many floating ice blocked the passage, so we had to circle around them. As a result, how far we can go is subject to god's plan.正当舰桥上的领航员们满头大汗地精确航行之际，我却激动地围上了船尾的一个室外烤炉：厨房的伙计们今天给大家做阿根廷有名的烧烤！激动激动！我悄悄地从烤炉里面偷了两根香肠，一块牛排，还有一块鲸鱼排，圂囵吞了下去。对的，他们还有鲸鱼排，但是其实吃起来就是带着鱼腥味的老牛排，没什么特别的。对了，我赶快再去拿两根香肠再说。While the navigators were sweating profusely in the brdige, I was pestering a barbeque at the tail of the ship: the chefs decided we were gonna eat the famous Argentinean parrilladas today! I sneaked two sausages, a steak, and a whale steak from the parrilla, and inhaled them all. Yep, they do have whale, but it just tastes like a beef steak with strong fishy smell, so nothing to see here. Oh wait, gotta go borrow two more sausages, later.上图：请勿喂食船员福音湾/Foyn Harbour下午，乌斯怀亚号在福音湾下锚，准备下午的活动。由于潮涌比较厉害，向导们决定还是在海湾内坐皮艇绕一圈，而不是冒险登陆。Afternoon, Ushuaia dropped anchor at Foyn Harbour, preparing for the afternoon activity. Due to strong surges, the guides decided to take us for a zodiac cruise instead of risking for a landing.安详的海湾格外的宁静，而我们呼吸也不敢大声，生怕打扰到了这些邃蓝冰川的万年长眠。远离人类的喧嚣，城市的喧扰，社会的牵挂，这里才是地球最原始的形态。The tranquil bay was especially quiet, so much so that we did not dare to breath loudly, in case we wake up the azure blue icebergs from their millenia-long slumber. Far from human disturbance, urban influence, and social ties, this is what Earth looks like in its most original state.南极最鬼斧神工的莫过于水和冰的互动了。上图，涨潮时的冰被海水融化，所以在退潮时，整个冰原变成了一个屋檐，似乎随时都会崩塌。The most incredible Antarctic creation must come from the interaction between ice and water. In the above photo, snow is melted by the sea water when it is high tide, and they turn into a precariously hung edge when it is low tide, probably going to collapse any minute.海湾之中还有一艘沉船，叫做Governøren，挪威语中的“执政者”之意。1915年，这艘捕鲸船在福音湾附近着火，船上的高浓度鲸鱼油立刻使得火苗完全吞没了全船。船长不得不下令弃船，把它特意搁浅到这里，所幸无人伤亡。There is a sunken ship here in the bay, named Governøren, which means “the governor” in Norwegian. 1915, this whaler caught fire, and the whale oil on board quickly made the blaze engulf the boat. Captain ordered abandon ship, so he intentionally beached this vessel. Luckily, no one was hurt during this incident.如今，这堆破铜烂铁成为了南极海燕最理想的筑巢地。数百只盘旋在我们的上空，灵活地穿梭在各层甲板的圆形窗洞之间。我很欣慰，至少人类的灾难给本地生灵做了一个小贡献。Now, this pile of rusted metal is the perfect breeding ground for Antarctic tern. Hundreds of them circled above, agilely squeezing between the circular windows of every deck. I am relieved, as at least this human disaster contributed to the local life.下图：远处的高山/Below: a mountain far away上图：激动不已的查理/Above: Charlie excited beyond belief回到船上后，我本以为这美好的一天已经结束。可是吃好晚餐，我站到甲板上想要思考思考人生时，却被眼前的景象惊呆了。Back on board, I thought this wonderful day had already ended. Yet, as I finished dinner and stood onto the deck looking for some reminiscence, I gasped as I saw what was in front of me.红色的夕阳把天上的云都点燃了，如一团团爆炸的棉花糖一般。连远处的高山居然也被点着了，在云上留下了一道道阴影。这是我见证过最震撼的日落，没有之一。夜渐渐深了，但是这个彩霞居然还越变越红......The clouds were lit up by the setting sun, like exploding marshmellows. Even the furthest mountain peaks were on fire, leaving a dark mark on the clouds. This is THE most breathtaking sunset I have ever witnessed. The night was nigh, yet this scene was just getting started...越来，越红......Redder, and redder...这就是南极，这就是人间天堂，这就是一位旅行者最珍贵的宝藏。This is Antarctica; this is heaven on earth; this is the most precious treasure for a traveler.南极半岛/Antarctic Peninsula第十六天，11月8日Day 16, November 8th无风，二摄氏度，晴windless, 2°C, sunny64°40'S, 62°40'W奥恩港/Orne Harbour2016年11月8日，这是我永生难忘的一天。这一天早上我在船头看到的一切，是我这辈子见过最纯净，最原始，最心潮澎湃的画面。这是南极的永恒，也是渺小人类的永恒。November 8th, 2016 will forever be a day that I cannot forget. This morning, what I saw at the front of the ship, is the most pristine, most natural, and most exhilerating thing in my entire life. This is the eternity of Antarctica, and the eternity of humanity.如果这个宇宙之中有一个天堂，那这就是最靠近天堂的地方；如果这个人生有一种巅峰存在，那这就是登顶的最后一步；如果灵魂有被升华的可能，那这就是传说中的净化机会。我在这个渺小的星球上走过了百万公里，却没有他处能带来这种安详、宁静、自在的感觉：来到南极之后，你将无欲无求。If there is a heaven in this world, then this is the place closest to it; if there is a peak existence in life, then this is the last step of the summit; if the spirit can ascend, then this is the legendary opportunity. I have marched a million kilometers on this earth, yet no other place can bring me this sense of calm, peace and self-fulfillment. Once you have been to Antarctica, you shall be purged of desires.天边是无边的白，而眼下的却是透明的蓝。数千只企鹅在水中一跃而起，划出一道道弧线，和平静的水面碰撞出无数涟漪，交错着，结合着，共鸣着，打破了这镜面一般的南极海。Endless white at the horizons, and transparent blue underneath the feet. Thousands of penguins leap from the waters, drawing one glistening arch after another, crashing against the tranquil surface, creating countless ripples. They merge, they cross, they collide, they synchronize, all breaking the mirror-like surface of the Antarctica sea.不甘示弱的海豹们也加入了这幅画卷，和我们的船玩了起来。为了保护它们，船长下令关闭发动机，停止螺旋桨的转动，而它们也在清澈见底的水中表演起了南极芭蕾，整齐划一，如美人鱼一般拨动心弦。Seals could not miss out on the party, and began playing with our ship. In order to protect them, captain turned off the engine so the turbines would stop, and they repayed us with a well-choreographed underwater ballet in the clear sea, as enchanting as the legendary mermaids.所有人早餐都不顾了，直接跳上摆渡船准备登陆，而向导组成的先锋队早就在山坡上开出了一条道路。原本负责帮忙的几位讲师都不顾职位，自己跑到山坡上玩雪了。我也一点都不怪他们：我要是做向导，在这种地方我也要玩啊！Everyone abandoned breakfast plans and immediately hopped onto the zodiac for landing. Yet the guides already formed a scouting force and opened a route up a hill nearby. The handful of lecturers who were supposed to help out did not do their duties, instead were all frolicking in the snowy hills. I do not blame them at all though: because if I am a guide, I would play all day too!上图：回程时拍摄的爬山路线/Above: the route towards the peak, shot on the way back二话不说，第一个到的我立刻向山上飞奔了开来。五分钟后，气喘吁吁的我看到了海湾的另一面，瞬间被这个美景震撼得哑口无言。Needless to say, I was the first to arrive, and I began charging for the top. Five minutes later, while gasping for air, I saw the other side of the bay, whose beauty completely took away my ability to speak.下图：纯•白/Below: Pure.White.一尘不染的白雪配上毫无波澜的海水，反射出了最纯洁的颜色。眼前我看到的不是地球的一个角落，而是神亲手锻造出来的奇迹。Spotless snow combined with perfectly flat sea water, reflecting the purest form of color out of this scene. What I saw was not just a corner on Earth, but actually a miracle handcrafted by gods.远处眺望过去，海湾里面的乌斯怀亚号简直就是澡盆里面的玩具。但是这澡盆可不是一般的美啊。Looking down, MV Ushuaia in the bay looks like a toy sitting in a bathtub, a very attractive bathtub.在大自然的巨人面前，我感觉到的却不是畏惧。心中充满的只是满满的敬意，最崇高的感激，以及无以言表的自我认识：人类这么渺小，而这世界又是这么伟大，我们何从挑战地球母亲的权威呢？In front of the giant of nature, I felt no fear. What was in my heart was just respect and appreication, as well as an indescribable form of self-consciousness: humans are so small, yet the world is so big, so where did we gain the audacity to challenge the authority of Mother Earth?上图：查理在天堂拍照呢/Above: Charlie taking photos in heaven在这么高的地方，居然也有好几只特别有探险精神的企鹅。就连人都要爬半天的山，对于为水中快速行动而进化的它们来说，肯定是好几个小时的挣扎吧。Even in places this high, there are a few particularly adventurous penguins. A mountain that takes humans quite a while to climb must be a multi-hour chore for creatures built for rapid movements in water.上图：夫妻双双把家还/Above: home sweet home下图：石块，是象征爱的标志/Below: Rocks are symbols of love企鹅们的生活很简单：在这么美轮美奂的山巅，和自己终身的伴侣一起成立一个家，然后每天看看平静的海面，再去海里打打鱼。人活到这个境界，也算是天外飞仙了吧。Penguins' lives are incredibly simple: live on a gorgeous mountain top, form a family with your lifetime partner, and then look at the peaceful sea, or go fishing in those waters. If a person lives to such a style, he or she may have already reached the next level of existence.不顾向导们的再三劝导，我们一行人决定光着屁股滑着雪下山！尽管到山下时候内裤里面都全部都是白花花的渣，但是所有人都笑开了花。登上摆渡船，看着一动不动的浮冰，我觉得这次来南极实在是太值了。Ignoring the admonishments of the guides, the gang decided to slide down the mountain. Even though we reached the bottom with our underwears full of fluffy snow, everyone was so elated and excited. Onboard the zodiac, watching the floating ice sitting still, I felt this was the most worthwhile trip I had ever been on.下图：回去的路上~！/Below: on the way back!在浮冰群之中，不免撞上一两块冰箱大小的迷你冰山。可是令人没想到的是，冰不但密度极高，而且水上看得到的部分仅仅是十分之一。所以才碰擦到一块小床那么大的冰，我们的摆渡船就被猛烈地顶了开来，我还差点下去洗了个南极澡。In the pack ice, it is inevitable that we would hit a few fridge-sized mini icebergs. Yet surprisingly, ice not only has extremely high density, but also is only 10% visible above water. As a result, just brushing against a bed-sized chunk jerked our zodiac, almost making me take an Antarctic shower.下图：真的是冰山一角啊/Below: really it is a tip of the iceberg!上图：水下观察冰山/Above: monitoring the iceberg from underwater下图：水中跃出的企鹅和摆渡船/Below: a penguin hopping and a zodiac就连掌舵的摆渡船水手也依依不舍，告诉我他从来没看过这么美丽的奥恩港，一边说一边在这个海湾里面转了三圈。一只金图企鹅也在我们身旁来回穿梭，仿佛是在和我们送别。Even the crew handling the zodiac was emotional, telling me he had never seen such a breathtaking Orne Harbour, while taking us around the bay for three more times. A gentoo penguin followed us around, as if it was bidding farewell to us.下图：一只维德尔海豹/Below: A weddel seal这座山是南极大陆的一部分，所以为了庆祝正式登陆南极洲，我们一行人购买了香槟，一同向这蔚蓝的奇迹干一杯！今天，我正式在2016年一年中成功踏上世界七大洲了！This mountain is a part of Antarctica mainland proper, so in order to celebrate the official landing on Antarctica, we bought a bottle of champagne. Cheers, to this azure blue continent of miracles! As of today, I have officially stepped onto all seven continents in the year of 2016!下图：干杯！[]~(￣▽￣)~*/Below: cheers!下图：在浮冰上休息的企鹅/Below: penguins chilling on pack ice乌斯怀亚号再次启航，前往下一个目的地。这只是一上午，但是我们都变了，从这一刻起，我们都是真正的南极人了。Ushuaia raised her anchor again, heading towards the next destination. It may have just been a morning, yet we have all changed. From this moment on, we are all truly Antarcticans.库佛维尔岛/Cuverville Island下午的登陆点是库佛维尔岛，一个冰雪覆盖的企鹅聚集地。大家上午的肾上腺素还没完全挥发掉，都争先恐后地往前挤，抢着要下船。Afternoon's landing site is Cuverville Island, a snow-covered penguin colony. The adrenalin from the first half of the day had not dissipated yet, so everyone was pushing forward to board the zodiac.下图：企鹅来凑热闹看我们登陆/Below: penguins sneaking a peek of our landing上图：五彩斑斓的石头/Above: colorful rocks下图：一根冰柱/Below: an icicle这里是这片海域最大的金图企鹅繁殖地之一，也是我们从南乔治亚离开之后第一次看到熟悉的“企鹅公路”。如果不熟悉的小伙伴们可以去南乔治亚篇看看哦~！This is the largest breeding ground for gentoo penguins in this area. It is also the first time that we saw the familiar “penguin highway” after leaving South Georgia. If you are not familiar, go check the South Georgia jounral out!上图：漫山遍野的企鹅/Above: a mountain full of penguins下图：冰川之前的聚集地/Below: the colony in front of a glacier上图：平得反光/Above: so flat that it reflects一只企鹅对我们的登陆用具特别感兴趣，围着那一堆衣服转了好几圈，貌似是要把这些五颜六色的石块全部占为己有。而远处，看着平静的水面，我的灵魂渐渐地离开了身体，上升到了一个超越肉身的精神高度。。。只是我老是在关键时刻被一只只在水面跳跃的企鹅打断冥想。A penguin was particularly interested in our landing gears. It circled around our clothes a few times, as if it was gonna claim ownership of this pile of colorful rocks. Afar, looking at the even sea, my soul slowly departed from my body, ascending to a spiritual level beyond corporeal vessels... Just for my meditation to be broken by a few hopping penguins on the surface.南极真的是地球的秘密宝藏。再怎么看，我都不会审美疲劳。冰、水、企鹅，这么经典的组合，每个人，一生都请不要错过。Antarctica is truly a hidden treasure of Earth. No matter how I look at it, I will never have grown fatigued. Ice, water, penguins, what a classic combination! Everyone, please do not miss out on this in your life.下图：休息一下？/Below: taking a break?上图：摇摇摆摆上班去咯~！/Above: waddling to work!我坐在水边，拿起一块海冰，咬在嘴里含了起来。身边的一只金图企鹅试了试水，被我抓拍到了南极最经典的画面。I sat by the water, took up a piece of sea ice, and held it in my mouth. A gentoo penguin beside me dipped its toes in the water, and became part of a classic photo in Antarctica.上图：出水的企鹅/Above: penguins hopping out of the water大部分企鹅最喜欢的休息方式就是躺在肥肥的肚皮上。我摸了摸自己的小肚腩和三下巴，表示完全可以加入这个本地最受欢迎的活动之中。Most penguins' favorite resting position is lying on top of their chubby belly fat. I felt around my waist and my triple chin, and was very confident that I can join in on this local activity.下图：入乡随俗/Below: doing what the Romans do从登陆点离开后，我们的水手开着摆渡船去了附近的一块浮冰四伏的海域绕了一圈。无数的企鹅在大小不一的冰山之中若隐若现，使得追踪它们拍摄特别的困难。Upon departure from the landing point, our sailor piloted the zodiac towards an area filled with ice packs for a cruise. Numerous penguins played hide and seek with us in the icebergs, making photographing them particularly difficult.我们还得以近距离接触一只趴着睡懒觉的海豹，以及一个快要一分为二的大冰山。水面毫无波纹，简直就是天上云彩的梳妆镜。水手都不好意思快速开船，生怕破坏了冰块的倒影。We also got to get in close contact with a seal snoozing on a piece of ice, as well as a large iceberg that was about to break in half. There are few ripples in the waters, as if they are mirrors for the clouds. Our sailor did not want to sail quickly, as if he did not want to break the reflections of the icebergs.上图：上下一样，分不清楚/Above: can't tell which is up and which is down上图：南极玛格丽特/Above: Antarctica Margarita!回到乌斯怀亚号，在海中前行之际，酒吧的酒保推出了最新原料：一大块新鲜从海里捞上来的冰！用南极的冰做的玛格丽特，果然是味道不一样啊！来，这一杯是敬你的，亲爱的读者，谢谢你一如既往的支持！Back on Ushuaia, as we proceeded on the sea, the bartender in the bar introduced a new ingredient, a chunk of ice freshly picked up from the sea! A margarita made with Antarctic ice is definitely on its own level. Come, this one is to you. To my dear reader, and your unwavering support!下图：来，干杯！/Below: cheers!这天剩下的时光中，我们就慢慢地在这无风的内海中航行。船走得特别慢，两边的倒影纹丝不动地和我们送行。天和地已经没有了区别，而人间和天堂也分辨不开了。难道，这是一场梦麽？In the remaining hours of this day, we sailed slowly in the windless inner sea. The ship went especially slowly, and the reflections on both sides silently bid farewell to us. The sky and the land have become indistinguishable, and so do the mortal realm and heavenly paradise. Maybe, this is all a dream?我坐上顶层甲板，慢慢地摇晃着手里的鸡尾酒，南极的冰块碰撞着杯壁，丁零当啷地作响。一望无垠的蓝和白，从天上倒影到水中，亦或是水里复制到天上，已经无所谓了。若世界的边缘在这里，那我想要永远的留在这个现实和虚幻的天际线。I sat on the top deck, slowly twirling my cocktail. The Antarctic ice hit the glass, making clanking sounds nonstop. The bondless blue and white, the reflection in the water, or is it the reflection in the sky, it does not matter. If the edge of the world is here, then I want to remain at this boundary between reality and fiction forever.上图：巨大的冰山/Above: gigantic iceberg上图：企鹅在冰山上手足无措/Above: confused penguins on an iceberg由于纬度接近南极圈，这里夏日的太阳几乎从来不下山。半夜时分，夕阳终于渐渐地潜入了北方的群山之中，给这个单色调的大洲带来了一抹的橙红。这就是我的2016年11月8日，四年之后的今天，我仍然是记忆犹新。Because of the near-polar circle latitude, the sun here almost never sets in summer. Around midnight, dusk orange finally shroaded this monotone continent as the sun slowly sank beneath the rolling mountains to the north. This is my November 8th, 2016, even fresh on my mind nearly four years later today.上图：南极的夜晚/Above: night in Antarctica欺骗岛/Deception Island第十七天，11月9日Day 17, November 9th五节东北风，负一摄氏度，晴、阴5 knots northeast wind, -1°C, sunny/overcast64°08'S, 61°37'W上图：远眺欺骗岛/Above: Deception Island from afar在南极的最后一天是从欺骗岛开始的。这个岛得名来源于这个看似普通的小岛实际上是一个火山口，里面是一个安全的避风港。从叫做“海神的咆哮”的小口子进去，里面就是方圆几百里最平静的海湾，许多年以来都是捕鲸人、探险队以及考察队的最爱。The last day in Antarctica began with Deception Island. This island's name comes from its deceptively normal appearance actually hides the caldera of a volcano, with a safe harbour inside. Entering Neptune's Bellow, one will find the most peaceful bay hundreds of miles around. It has been a favorite of whalers, expeditions and scientific research for years.下图：欺骗岛地图/Below: Deception Island map上图：遗弃的捕鲸站/Above: abandoned whaling station除了几个年久失修的捕鲸站以外，这个岛还有英国和西班牙的南极科考站。我们选择了海湾对面的一个黑色沙滩登陆。从这里攀爬，几分钟就可以来到一个火山口，空气可以达到三十多度呢！Besides a few abandoned whaling stations, this island also has a research station for UK and Spain each. We chose to land at a different side of the bay, onto a black sand beach. Climbing from here, a few minutes would lead to a volcanic vent, whose air can reach more than 30 degrees!上图：火山边缘/Above: edge of the volcano岛的其他地方还有温暖的沙滩，可以在那上面挖坑自己泡温泉。但是火山带来的地震却是不容小觑的，过去五十年内，岛上的研究站已经被地震损坏了很多次，也让不少其他国家从这里撤了出去。爬上乌黑的山头，我可以一直看到最下面的谷底。The island has warm beaches elsewhere, where you can dig holes for your own hot springs. Yet one cannot disregard the earthquakes that come with the volcano. In the past fifty years, the research stations on the island have been destroyed multiple times, forcing a few countries out of the island. Summiting the black hill, I could see all the way to the bottom of the valley.下图：影子拉的好长好长/Below: my super long shadow回去途中，我看到了一片光溜溜的丝滑雪地。不知道为啥，那时候我的心中只有一个念头：躺！上！去！腿脚不受控制，我走了过去，倒在了这片洁白的床单上，心里美滋滋的。（我怎么这么容易满足？）On the way back, I saw a field of silk-smooth snow. I don't know why, but one thought took over my head: LIE ON IT! My legs listened to the command, so I wafted over there, and collapsed on top of this clean bedsheet, giggling like a maniac. (Why am I so easy to satisfy?)感觉上下图有什么联系.....Feels like the photos above and below are somehow connected...在这里我们还可以挑战在南极游泳。几乎是冰点的水配上没有任何现代设施的组合，可以算是我这辈子游过最冷的一次泳了吧。这种东西一辈子一次绝对足矣！Here, we can also challenge the Antarctic plunge. The near-freezing water combined with a lack of modern facilities made it the most chilling swim I have ever taken in my life. This kind of experience is truly, and only, once in a lifetime!下图：克里斯汀后悔着呢/Below: Christine regretting her decisions上图：打是亲骂是爱？/Above: hitting is caring?海滩上，比我们游泳厉害多的两只海狗互相依偎着，一边嘲笑着我们冻得瑟瑟发抖的姿态，一边扭扭捏捏搂搂抱抱的，嫌我鸡皮疙瘩不够多是么。这发的不是一般的狗粮，而是海狗粮！On the beach, two seals who were significantly better than us at swimming cuddled together, laughing at our shivers while snuggling even closer. Hey, have some decency okay? I have enough chills to deal with already!半月岛/Half Moon Island上图：前往半月岛的路上/Above: on our way to Half Moon Island这次旅程的最后一个登陆点就是半月岛了，所有人惆怅地踏上了满是石子的海滩，不愿意承认这是我们最后一次踏上南极的土地了。对于很多船上的老年人来说，这就是人生中南极的最后几步了。The last landing point during this voyage is Half Moon Island. Everyone sluggishly stepped onto the pebbled beach with sorrow in the eyes, refusing to admit that this would be our final time standing on the soil of Antarctica. For many older passengers, these would be the final steps of Antarctica in their lives.下图：半月岛海滩/Below: Half Moon Island Beach上图：克里斯汀和查理打雪仗中/Above: Christine and Charlie snowball fighting半月岛很小，主要的企鹅活动全部都聚集在岛上山顶裸露的岩石周边。这些凸起来的石头像是数万年前外星人留下的遗迹，其实是之前介绍过的冰原岛峰。数百万年前，这个岛可是一座大山的山顶呢。Half Moon Island is very small, with the majority of penguin activities centered around the bare rocks at the top of the small hill. These protruding features look like alien monuments created thousands of years ago, but are actually nunataks introduced before. Millions of years ago, this island was the peak of a large mountain.下图：一艘一百年前捕鲸人留下的救生船/Below: a life boat left by whalers a hundred years ago上图：和声同唱/Above: synchronized singing下图：难道不是外星球吗？/Below: is this not an alien planet?在岛上打了雪仗，思考了人生，也看了企鹅最后一眼，是时候结束了。所有人依依不舍地踏上了回去的摆渡船，正式结束了南极的最后一次登陆。On the island, we fought in the snow, pondered about life, and took one last glimpse of penguins; it is time. Everyone unwillingly stepped onto zodiac on the way back, officially terminating the last landing in Antarctica.下图：永远不忘南极行/Below: Never forgetting the Antarctica trip结果没想到，我们的摆渡船都不愿意离开，在半路抛锚了。不一会儿，一艘救援的备用艇来了。巨大的潮涌下，所有人都要跳到一米开外的另一艘艇，这可不是简单事呢。一位老太太奋身一跃，结果被绳子绊倒，幸亏被水手一把抱住，否则差点就下去游泳了。Surprisingly, even our zodiac refused to leave, breaking down half way. In a bit, a backup rescue boat arrived. With a huge surge coming in, jumping to another zodiac a meter away was not an easy feat. One old lady leaped with all her might, yet tripped on the ropes. Thankfully one of the sailors caught her, or she might had gone for a swim.再见，南极/Farewell, Antarctica第十七天，第十八天Day 17, 1811月10日，11日November 10th, 11th“人不会一天突然决定成为伟人，他们只是决定了去做伟大的事。”---探险英雄：埃德蒙希拉里爵士“People do not decide to be extraordinary. They decide to accomplish extraordinary things.”—Sir Edmund Hillary上图：南极的最后一眼/Above: the last glimpse of Antarctica南极是世界的最后一片净土，也是最能够体现人类渺小的地方。这个世界很大，有很多地方可以去欣赏，可以去比较，但是南极却是独一无二的。在德雷克海峡漂泊的两天，我坐在餐厅里面，静静地思考着。南极不是照片和文字可以体现的：人类的一切都无法和这个大自然的终极乐园比较，何况是描述呢。Antarctica is the last piece of virgin land on Earth, and is the place to demonstrate the frailty of humanity. The world is big, and it has many places to be appreciated, and compared, yet Antarctica is unique. During the two days drifting in Drake Passage, I sat in the canteen, silently pondering. Antarctica is not described via photos or words: everything humans have created cannot even remotely compare to this ultimate playground of mother nature, yet alone describe it.下图：在餐厅出神/Below: pondering in canteen上图：漫漫长路/Above: long, long way第十九天Day 1911月12日November 12th上图：南极万岁！/Above: Viva Antarctica!今天是庆祝典礼，所有人都来到了休息室，互相道贺：咱都成为世界上去过南极的人上人了！我们的领队也给所有人颁发了证书，证明我们已经成为了货真价实的南极人。Today is a celebration ceremony, so everyone gathered in the lounge. We congratulated each other: we are all one of the thousandth of humans who have been to Antarctica! Our lead guide also presented everyone a certificate, signifying that we have become Antarcticans.下图：领奖咯~！/Below: time for my award!之后，全船的服务团队前来向大家表示感谢，他们负责了我们每天的端茶送水，整理房间，洗衣叠被，送饭收盘子等等。很多人光躺着都晕船了，他们的工作绝对不是一般的困难！之后我们的舰桥团队派来了代表，向大家祝贺。最后是我们的英雄（下图），掌舵二十余年经验，过去二十天救过我们两次命的的Sergio Osiroff Calle船长！Then, the service team came to express their gratitude. They were responsible for our every move from cleaning the room to presenting us the dishes. Some folks got seasick just by lying down, and imagine them having to deal with everything while working! Afterwards, the bridge sent a representing team to congratulate us, and eventually presented our hero(below), the person who had 20 years of experience on the bride, and had saved our lives twice in the past 20 days: Captain Sergio Osiroff Calle!大家在仪式结束之后互相交换了联系方式。这么小一艘船的好处就在于，仅仅二十天后，所有人都像老朋友一般熟悉。上图的波兰大叔专门把他的企鹅毛绒玩具带了过来。下图则是和我一起度过这段美好时光的一帮子年轻人。至今，我们还是常常有联系呢！Everyone exchanged contact information after the ceremony ended. The good thing about such a small ship is that everyone had become great friends after merely 20 days. The Polish dude above brought his personal favorite penguin plushy, and below is the gang that spent the greatest day of my life with me. Even until now, we are still in contact!上图：乌斯怀亚纪念蛋糕/Above: commemorative cake of Ushuaia第二十天Day 2011月13日November 13th54°48'S, 68°18'W终于，我们回到了人类世界。最后一天的早餐是一个大大的蛋糕，做得和我们的船一模一样。和所有共处二十天的船员道别之后，我慢慢地走下了甲板。几天前，我才刚刚从这里上船，怎么一下子就结束了呢？Finally, we returned to human world. The last breakfast is a large cake shaped exactly like our ship. After bidding farewell to the crew who spent the past 20 days with me, I slowly walked off the deck. Just a few days ago, I got onto this boat here, yet how come it has already ended?上图：抛绳子/Above: throwing the rope可是，就在这20天内，我变了，这个世界也变了。美国大选在我们离开世界的时候举行了，看到特朗普当选美国总统时，全船炸开了锅。而与此同时，我则是在思考，南极让我体会到了人的渺小，也给我展示了大自然的宏伟。我学习到了一点谦卑，感受到了一点激昂，靠着南极给我的力量，我会越走，越远。Yet, in these 20 days, I have changed; the world had changed too. American election took place while we were out of this world, and when everyone saw Trump won the election, the entire ship imploded. Meanwhile, I was thinking: Antarctica made me feel my place in this world, and showed me the grand scheme of nature. I learned a bit humility, and experienced excitement. With strength given to me by Antarctica, I will go further, and further.下图：停靠在乌斯怀亚/Below: harboured in Ushuaia上图：所有亚裔的合影！/Above: The entire Asian gang!这就是南极之行的结尾了，谢谢大家的支持和鼓励，也希望您在这篇游记中收获了些许点滴。若是喜欢的话，希望可以加一个收藏，或是点个赞，如果能够分享给小伙伴的话那就更好了！如果南极的前篇都没看过的话，可以看一下之前的福克兰群岛和南乔治亚岛游记（https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3427825-1.html）哦！再次感谢您的阅读，攻略可以点上面的链接看上部分最后的南极完全攻略！---------------------------------------FIN-------------------------------------------非常感谢阅读！如果有希望前往南极的话，可以随时来问我问题哟！如果喜欢的话就给我点个赞吧！下一篇游记再会咯！
