奥茨胡恩游记攻略

南非花园大道指开普敦到伊丽莎白港N2的那条国道. 我们4月底开车来回一共玩了8天,从西开普敦省一直开到了东开普敦省.4月底的天气还是不错的,越往东面印度洋开温度就越高,但是南非天气是早晚温差很大,白天穿夏天衣服,早晚穿春秋的衣服. 我们本次是2个人,8天全部吃,住,行,玩所有的费用总计1万5兰特. 8天总共的住宿花了3千5兰特. 我们去的时候走的R62,路线cape town-worcester-robertson-montagu-ladismith-calitzdorp-oudtshoorn.如果不间断的开车,需要6个小时到oudtshoorn.在离worcester不原有很有名的Goudini Spa, robertson有很多的酒庄,很美,那里有一个叫做birds paradise的地方可以喝咖啡,看各种鸟的地方.montagu有一个montagu spring温泉和南非很有名的dried fruits,所有商场里卖的montagu水果干都是这里产的. ladismith是南非帕马拉特奶酪的工厂基地,calitdorp有一个很有名的温泉.oudtshoorn玩的地方很多,建议至少住两天. Oudtshoorn值得玩的地方: -Cango Cave-每一个小时一个tour,每周可能最后一个tour就到12点.里面分为普通的tour还有探险的,一般人都玩普通的,门票R75一张. 这个岩洞比国内的要小很多,而且里面没有河,但是他们保存的很好,值得一看. -Cango Cave Ostrich Farm-很多的鸵鸟,还可以骑鸵鸟,但是不建议骑,因为摔伤自负. -BUFFELSDRIFT GAME LODGE,这个是一个度假村酒店,可以住在里面,但是很贵,不住在里面的客人也可以参加每天的4*4 safari,需要预定,R380一个人,里面可以看到纯野生环境下的犀牛,羚羊,鸵鸟,长颈鹿,河马......他们还可以有骑大象的tour,和4*4 safari是分开的,但是只能骑大象,不能进保护区看动物. www.buffelsdrift.com 预定电话 +27 (0)44 272 000 ,邮箱:info@buffelsdrift.com-在oudtshoorn town里面很多餐厅提供鸵鸟肉和鳄鱼肉,可以尝一下,不贵.-Cango wildlife ranch,里面有老虎,狮子,鸟,雨,鳄鱼....里面还可以做crocodile cage diving. 这个地方有很多南非朋友和我推荐,但是我个人觉得没什么特别的,挺小的. -Meerkat Sunrise adventure,这个是我好不容易才找到的,非常好玩,纯野生环境去看meerkat从洞里出来,随着太阳升起他们陆续都跑出来.早上6点在去calitzdorp方向的R62和去mossel bay方向的R328 汇合处结合,导游开车领队,大概开车15分钟到一个保护区,然后大家吃他家自己做的rusk,喝咖啡,吃饱了大家就搬着板凳带着毛毯进入meerkat的领地了,静静的等太阳升起,然后一个meerkat会出来探视一下,当第一个出来的时候非常兴奋,因为第一次这么近距离的看他们是怎样出洞的. 我导游的联系方式, Mr. DV, +27 (0)847729678-Rust & Vrede Waterfall, 这个是在cango cave方向的一个瀑布,大概30多米高.我已经进山了但是没有看见瀑布,因为里面太安静,怕突然熊瞎子出来给我吃了还是放弃了,但是工作人员说里面没有,是这个片区最美的瀑布. 住宿的地方叫做N.A.SMIT,全是小木屋,里面可以自己做饭,什么厨房用品都有,很安静,就是不太好找,2个人2个晚上R960 第三天我们从oudtshoorn开到了wilderness, 路过George. George就是一个很安静的小镇,人口少,当地人很好,这个小镇有好多中国人的店,吃的,小商品全部都有. 建议到George小镇旅游局停第一站,问他们小镇有什么玩的怎么走.我记得就是一个博物馆,几个教堂. Wilderness是一个海边小镇,很美,可以去wilderness national park,如果开车自己看是免费的,里面很多. 强烈推荐一个吃生蚝的地方,名字:oyster R Us, 周二到周六开,预定电话:+27 (0)82 578 6817.地址: Boven Lange Valley Farm, N2,between Wilderness and Sedgefield. S34'00'08.5' E22'41'16.7' 我们第三个晚上住在了wilderness. guest house名字Clairewood ,www.clairewood.co.za GPS coordinates -33,9936,22,574281 地址:Clairewood,Silver River Street, Wilderness Heights, Garden Route Tel:0448770339-Sylvia info@clairewood.co.za 这个guest house非常的大,里面有4只非常大的狗,非常好,他们经常进来串门,但是一定要把门窗关好,因为这个地方很多的狒狒,他们进屋就会伤人了,很危险. 第四天我们从oudtshoorn一直开到了storm river, Tsitsikamma, 路过knysna,CRAGS, plettenberg bay. 在storm river建议去tsitsikamma national park,很大,很美. 在这个地方可以玩很多adventure的东西,比如216米从桥上的蹦极,segway,quad,zipline穿越丛林. 我们在storm river住了2天,住宿比较集中的地方在storm river village,可以google.za在里面的所有住宿地方.我们住在农场的木屋,叫做Tannenhof Guest Farm, 房东是一个希腊老太太和一个英国老头,人很好,我们是他们第一个中国客人. 农场里有一头驴,2只狗,3只马.里面全是小木屋,很暖和,有bath.两个人两个晚上大概R1,100. nicky@tannenhof.co.za Cell: +27 (0)82 730 1311 住在这里天天早上被猴子上木屋的声音吵醒,他们不伤人,很可爱,每天早上来. 在 Crags推荐去Monkeyland & Birds Eden. www.monkeyland.co.za www.birdfeden.co.za在monkeyland 旁边不远还有一个elephant park,里面可以做elephant safari,牵着大象在丛林里走.1个小时,400-500 兰特,里面有卖大象粪便做的纸画,听他们说大象的消化系统特别差,50%进食的东西要排出来,所以他们用它们做成纸张,大象踩一个脚印就是一幅杰作值钱了.Tenikwa wildlife awareness centre, 这个我没去,但是听说不错. 可以住在里面, info@africangamelodge.co.za Reservations:+27(0)72 350 3924 www.tenikwa.co.za 最后两天我们住在了knysna, 这个地方可以出海看海豚和鲸鱼,鲸鱼基本在8-10月份出现.可以在knysna waterfront去问,他们会告诉怎么预定,怎么去. 还有knysna比较有名的是生蚝,他们可以带着坐船去抓生蚝,讲生蚝的知识.在这的waterfront有一家中国人餐厅叫WU's,台湾人开的,很不错. 我们住在Knysna的地方是Knysna Riverside Lodge info@knysnariversidelodge.co.za 这个住宿的地方不是很推荐,房间打扫得不是很彻底,但是好处是他们有免费的wifi. 这个地区的老鼠特别多,最后一个晚上有一个小老鼠进屋了,和它睡了一宿. 在这个住的地方门前有一条河,可以钓鱼. 南非钓鱼一定要持钓鱼证,在各地的邮局可以办理. 最后一天我们从knysna开回了开普敦,如果不间断需要开6个小时. 我们早上第一站停在了sedgefield,每周六早上他们有一个farmers market,里面卖很多农产自产的蔬菜,水果,奶酪,鲜花等等.市场名字叫wild oats market,旁边还有一个craft market. 回来的第二站我们停在了mossel bay,也是一个海边城市,可以吃顿海鲜. 第三站停在了albertinia,这个地方有两家南非芦荟产品总部, 建议买aloe gel,比商场的会便宜些. 如果养猫的还可以给猫买一点营养品,芦荟对净化血液很有帮助,南非给鸵鸟和猫都吃芦荟,可以净化血液,延长寿命. 第四站停在swellendam, 一个挺漂亮的小镇,很多教堂. 到家了 强烈推荐大家自驾走一趟花园大道,可以了解多半南非当地人的风土人情.

花园路线太欧化 种族分化黑与白 “唐吉戈德”骑鸵鸟 原始风光最诱人 花园路线 stretches from Tsitsikamma River Mouth to Mossel Bay (or the other way around, depending on which way you start) like a pearl necklace of bays, beaches, cliffs and rocky capes strung together along a line of pounding white surf. Mountains crowd the shoreline and high rainfall on their peaks brings a consistent supply of water to narrow coast where every bit of soil nourishes plant growth. April 11 Named "Baia Formosa" (means beautiful bay) by early Portuguese explorer, Plettenberg Bay is absolutely beautiful, cannot be inventive for other words. Backed by majestic mountains, it overlooks the moody tidal Keurboom Lagoon and miles of sandy white beach whose crystal blue water reflects back at sky. It is one playground for many water sports and cool walks. We plan to do the sea kayaking in the morning. However, the sea is too rough for any water sports due to heavy rains yesterday. It has to be canceled. We chill out on the beach, so relaxed that unconsciously fall into sleep. It's nice to do nothing but just be spoilt by the Mother Nature. It’s raining again. We leave the Bay and back on Garden Route. Garden Route, one of the most popular areas mentioned in travel books, doesn’t attract us the way we expected. Maybe it is because of the rain, maybe because it is too much like Europe. With the cooperation of the rain, we seem sometime driving through a tranquil England countryside, and sometime traveling in a peaceful Switzerland Mountain village. Only when we drive away from main highways, the shabby and poverty-stricken township next to road reminds us that we are in Africa. It has been 11 years since 1994 when the apartheid was abolished, but the difference of living conditions and general social status is so striking as black-and-white that there’s no crossing point between the two. White people live in big houses in town and black people gather in township outside. The daytime is a world of the white and the black rule the night. What happened in the apartheid period? Is it still so deeply rooted in people’s mind? I wonder… We find a lodge named Park House in center of Mossel Bay. Set in a lush garden next to a tree-filled park, it is one of the backpackers we encounter with a lot atmosphere and characteristics. Built in 1860, the spacious old stone manor has some stunning woodcrafts and inspiring art works. A shady Victorian stoep surrounds the house, giant koi and goldfish cruise the pond on the border of the tranquil garden. Before dawn, we appreciate sunset in a famous beach -- the Point. The glittering sea, reflecting the last sun rays, is one exciting arena for young brave surfers who weave through white waves as skillfully and naturally as dolphins; up in the crystal blue sky hanging beautiful rainbows with few strokes of lazy clouds. I wish I were a painter to paint a watercolor drawing or a good photographer to capture this moment. Then I can show them to kids like Nikiwi (heroine in earlier mentioned documentary) who live in a township, but I am not sure if I’ll make them happy or sad, because they belong to such a beautiful country but the beautiful country doesn’t truly entirely belong to them… April 12 We plan to do a township tour. Unfortunately, it keeps on raining and the jeep driver considers it unsafe to drive in rain on a bad conditioned road leading there. Once again, we cancel the tour. I can’t sit still and I have to do something. We check out and leave immediately for Oudtshoorn. Oudtshoorn was home to rich feather barons until the turn of century when the collapse of the feather industry. The place had to find other attractions to survive and it has done a good job. Everything here is about ostrich and ostrich egg. We visit the Highgate Ostrich Show Farm and have a nice guide tour about ostrich, its multifunctional feather and its egg that I even step on. Male ostriches have black feather and female have brown one. They are far from intelligent because their brain size is even smaller than one of the eye. So when you feel threatened, never run away, because it overruns you easily and tears your belly open by kicking with its nail-like feet. You just need to pick up a thorny branch and wave it in front of its eye. But basically it is not dangerous, because we even manage to ride on them! Don’t expect you ride on an ostrich as riding on a horse. Holding its two wings and keeping body balanced while the top runner runs ups and down is a real challenge. As the second riding pioneer, I make myself a fool by clumsily slipping down from its back, but it provides other triers valuable lesson. Look, Roy follows up with a better and stunning performance. He firstly manipulates the ostrich as well as Don Quixote with his donkey, running from west to east. I follow them to make a short movie. Then the knight and his steed run to audience seats for honor and credit. After they get applause and whistles, our complacent knight seems to make a mistake in steering and his steed rush back to me and almost run me over. I manage to survive with a narrow escape. Without director, the knight’s career soon comes to an end. At lunch we eat ostrich meat. Yummy yummy! After the Ostrich farm, we go to the Cheetah Ranch, which is a zoo-like breeding ranch. Endangered big cats as cheetahs, leopards, lions, pumas and Bengal white tigers are taken care of here for future release to the wildness or National Parks like Kruger. Finally we see some big crocodiles and alligators inside fence. Till now all big Fives have been on show, mission accomplished! Still remember who are they and where we meet them? We eat crocodile meat at night, while Roy is probably so nervous that he slaps a glass of cola to the floor. April 13 Long time no see, bright sunshine. With a bright mood, we visit the Cango Caves. There are two kinds of tours to see the Caves, standard tour of one hour and adventure tour of 1.5 hours. The adventure tour is described as a challenging tour, with exciting passages and narrow chimneys, requiring a good degree of fitness. Of course we choose this one. According to legend the caves were discovered during 1780. Early explorers had to brave the pitch darkness of the vast caverns from the poor light of self made candles. Over years improvements took place and today modern technology makes it possible that all the wonders of the cave are skillfully illuminated and we are so amazed at its awesome display of stalagmites and stalactites. What’s more, the degree of difficulty also goes beyond what we expect. I take terrible pains in crawling through tight and damp caves as Lover’s Tunnel and Devil’s chimney (names speak for themselves), let alone 1.95m tall Roy, who can’t stretch his legs and almost got stuck between Devil’s Chimney as Monkey King under Five Fingers Mountain. Anyway, he makes it through with scratches and fun. Out of the caves, we drive up to the Swartberg Pass, one of the not-to-miss places in South Africa. It is a fairly easy drive as long as we take it slowly. The road is narrow, there are very long drops and many of the corners are blind, but the scenery is arguably the most spectacular thanks to the good visibility. Built between 1881 and 1888 by a brilliant engineer, the magnificent Swartberg Pass is 24 km long and reaches nearly 1600m in height. As we arrive at the summit (Die Top), incredible views over the bleak Karoo and, on the other side, the greenery of the Little Karoo come to our horizon. The road meanders down into a fantastic geology of twisted sedimentary layers. We drive down and arrive at a small village Prince Albert at foot of the mountain. The town is peaceful, green and fertile, producing peaches, apricots, grapes and olive. Next to road in warm sunny weather, we have lunch of two delicious African pies and chicken legs. The afternoon is driving across vast semi-desert Karoo in Western Cape. Translated out of Afrikaans it means “great thirst land”. The population is sparse, and off the highways we can drive one hour without seeing another car. We get to a small town (forget its name) surrounded by mountains and vineyards, lodging in the lovely vineyard Inn in mid of a wide range of grape fields. Walking through the wineries reminds me of the movie Wandering in Clouds. The dinner of lamb meat cooked by two French owners is lekker and the wine is great. Breathing the fresh and sweet air, I feel there is something magical in this area. It is probably the wide open Karoo makes me feel so tiny, it is maybe the towns which make me feel we’ve been suspended in time. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly, but there’s something about this place way out in the middle of nowhere, where life moves slowly and stars form as jewels in the velvet night sky… 待续